Kosi to Buffalo

17th – 20th February, 2017

Friday 17th

Today we farewell Kosciuszko NP, but not before seeing a little of the Snowy River Scheme. I’d love to know more about the Scheme and visit all the sites – next trip!

We left the park via Khankoban, then to Corryong for some shopping and on to Jingellic on the NSW side of the Murray River, not far away, for the night. This lovely campsite is free and is situated between the Bridge Hotel and the Murray River. The beer garden overlooks the camping area and across to the river. However … it is Friday night. The place was packed with groups for the weekend, and the pub was busy with drunks wandering through the campsite quite late. Not happy.

Saturday 18th

We moved 5km down the river to Gadds Bend Reserve, on the Victorian side. Fantastic! Camping is anywhere along about 250m of the beautiful Murray River, where it’s fairly shallow, with a few little rapids that make that delightful sound and is very easy to access if you want to swim. The River Red Gums that line the banks are stunning. Only us and two other campers here, very spread out.

Gill and Steve and I went for a walk along the road and found a gated lane called Redbank Track. We followed this up the hill for a kilometre or so getting beautiful views back over the Murray and the surrounding hills on the New South Wales side.

A great fire on the banks cooked our BBQ tea. The setting sun turned the wispy clouds pink, which were then reflected in the river.

Sunset at Gadds Bend on the Murray River.

Sunset at Gadds Bend on the Murray River.

Unfortunately the couple up from us came over to share the fire and rather spoilt the serenity of the evening with their ceaseless chatter about themselves – no art of conversation!

Early morning mist on the Murray River at Gadds Bend campsite.

Early morning mist on the Murray River at Gadds Bend campsite.

Sunday 19th

I’d have been very happy to stay here another night or two, it’s such a beautiful spot, but more bushwalking beckons and our next goal is Mt Buffalo. There’s a free camp at Cotton Tree near Granya State Forest which we stopped to take a look at, then walked via a restored scout hut to a small waterfall. The track continued up the hill but the condition of it was very poor.

The restored Granya Scout Hall on the walk into Granya State Forest, just up from Cotton Tree campsite.

The restored Granya Scout Hall on the walk into Granya State Forest, just up from Cotton Tree campsite.

The Ranger recommended a campsite at Boyd’s Bridge which we moved on to for the night. We’ve been quite spoilt with lovely camping areas beside rivers.

Monday 20th

Early departure for the very pretty town of Bright where Gill and I have appointments at the beautician for a little bit of maintenance. It’s a Caravan Park tonight, giving us the opportunity to get the washing done; it’s also quite cold and Mt Hotham, not far from here, is expecting snow tonight – not the night to be heading up into the mountains. Bright is a tourist town, being so close to Mt Buffalo and Mt Hotham, and is filled with interesting shops, eateries, wineries, berry farms and boutique distilleries – all of which we supported.

This afternoon we went for a really lovely walk around the river that flows through the town.

Fishing for trout in the Ovens River at Bright.

Fishing for trout in the Ovens River at Bright.

Dinner tonight was at Shimla described as an Italian Indian restaurant. The proprietors/cooks were Cesare (Italian) and Prue (Indian). Our meals were delicious and as we were finishing up Cesare joined us at the table and opened another bottle of wine which we all shared. A very convivial evening.

An Indian meal greatly enjoyed at the Shimla restaurant, Bright.

An Indian meal greatly enjoyed at the Shimla restaurant, Bright.

For more photos taken during this stage of our trip CLICK HERE.

Kosciuszko

5th – 16th February, 2017

Sunday 5th

And so the Kosciuszko part of our trip begins. We’re doing the northern section first, entering the park via Tumut. Our first stop was the thermal pools and caves at Yarrangobilly. Access to this area is on a steep unsealed road unsuitable for caravans. We didn’t tour the caves, but even just the entrance was spectacular; the drop in temperature from a warm 32-ish to low 20s within about 3 steps was worth it.

Looking back out through the cave entrance.

Looking back out through the cave entrance.

We continued walking along the Yarrangobilly River to the thermal pool. It’s a 20 metre pool constructed over fissures in the rocks from which the water is forced from a depth of 760m and is a constant 27C. Apparently the Eastern Banjo Frog breeds in the pool, a sign of the health of the pool, but happily not encountered during our swim. Surely this is the most perfect swimming pool in the world, in a narrow river valley surrounded by gums, birds and a family of kangaroos.

How's this for a tranquil pool setting! Yarrangobilly

How’s this for a tranquil pool setting! Yarrangobilly

Tonight we camp at Ghost Gully campsite, a large flat site used by horse -trekkers. A pile of timber beside a fireplace couldn’t be resisted.

Ghost Gully campsite.

Ghost Gully campsite.

Monday, Tuesday 6th, 7th

Our planned camp at Blue Waterholes was ruled out after it rained overnight making the road ‘difficult’. Instead we camped for two nights at Three Mile Dam. The early gold prospectors created a dam from the Eucumbene River for year round water and to use it to blast the rock and soil to find gold. We walked the Goldseekers Track loop walk both days, about 6km.

Crossing the mighty Murrumbidgee R - in its early days.

Crossing the mighty Murrumbidgee R – in its early days.

The weather is getting colder and it’s rained a few times, and no firewood here, sadly.

Yep it did get a bit chilly, not that Ric was cold.

Yep it did get a bit chilly, not that Ric was cold.

Wednesday 8th

Big day today. We’re heading for the southern walks via Jindabyne. At Jindabyne we reprovisioned our food, water and fuel as well as bought Park Passes at the Information Centre, necessary for entry into this section. We had a yummy lunch at the cafe at the Information Centre. (Water only available at the BP servo, dump point near the tip).

We headed firstly to Perisher where we parked and did the Porcupine Walk, a 6km out-and-back walk to Porcupine Rocks. Wildflowers, button grass plains, snow gums and large granite outcrops characterised the walk, with great views down Thredbo and Perisher Valleys from the top.

On Porcupine Rocks. Steve, Gill, Denise, Ric.

On Porcupine Rocks. Steve, Gill, Denise, Ric.

Camp tonight is at Island Bend campsite, alongside the Snowy River. A fabulous spot.

Thursday 9th

Today we walk to the top of Australia! We left from Charlotte Pass, Ric taking the Main Range loop and Steve, Gill and I walking the more direct Summit Walk, 9km straight up. We brunched on the banks of the Snowy River, paused briefly at the iconic Seamans Hut, did the appropriate thing at the highest toilet block in Australia at Rawsons Pass and lunched beside the cairn marking the highest point on the Australian continent where we had 360 degree views across the roof of Australia. Mt Kosciuszko is 2228 metres and was named by the Polish explorer Count Strzelecki.

Seamans Hut, on the Kosiuzsko Summit walk.

Seamans Hut, on the Kosiuzsko Summit walk.

 

Yay, we made it! We're at the very highest point on the Australian continent.

Yay, we made it! We’re at the very highest point on the Australian continent.

When Ric arrived Steve and I decided to walk back via Main Range while Ric and Gill took the Summit Track back down.

After summiting Kosiuzsko Steve and I decide to go that way back to Charlotte Pass.

After summiting Kosiuszko Steve and I decide to go that way back to Charlotte Pass.

This walk is described as one of the classic walks of NSW and it is certainly that. It’s also described as a hard walk and again I won’t disagree. The track winds up and down around mountains, past residual ice not yet melted and overlooks beautiful lakes, Lake Alpina being one of the most stunning. We sat awhile and absorbed the views and the serenity on the way up to Carruthers Peak, there being very few walkers about. While it was sunny, the wind was pretty ferocious, blowing us sideways in some exposed areas. The clouds were only just above us; it felt like we could reach up and grab them. The snow gums intrigued us with their patterned trunks while the abundance of wild flowers added even more beauty to the walk. We crossed several creeks, the final two on stepping stones over Club Lake Creek and the Snowy River, before commencing the final VERY steep climb up nearly a kilometre to the car park. A tough way to finish a total walk of 23km, 1000 metres of ascent and descent and 8 hours.

Denise overlooking Lake Alpina.

Denise overlooking Lake Alpina.

 

Down the track, across the Snowy River, then up and up and up that last climb to the carpark. Brutal!

Down the track, across the Snowy River, then up and up and up that last climb to the carpark. Brutal!

The track condition was quite varied, starting at the Kosciuszko end being well formed and deteriorating as you got further along, some parts on large granite stone paving slabs, other sections narrow path worn by many feet, other sections badly crumbling little paving bricks, some small gravel sections and the worst of all medium sized gravel stones. There was a track maintenance crew working on it, laying more huge granite paving stones.

We arrived back at camp weary but very pleased we’d done the whole circuit, to say nothing about having reached the top of Australia – woo hoo!

Ric cooked a butterflied pork over the fire on the BBQ for dinner – divine.

Friday, Saturday 10th, 11th

The east coast of Australia is currently roasting with temps in the high 30s to low 40s. We’ll stay here, camped right beside the chilly Snowy River enjoying swims and cool breezes for a couple of days. Believe it or not a cold change is then forecast with temps down to zero at Thredbo.

Swimming in the crystal clear, and jolly cold, waters of the Snowy R.

Swimming in the crystal clear, and jolly cold, waters of the Snowy R.

Upstream from us is Guthega Dam, part of the Snowy River Hydro Scheme. There are warnings around our campsite saying beware of rapid increases and decreases in river levels and sure enough one moment it was just a pretty little, shallow river weaving around rocks and half an hour later it was a meter deeper with rapids. Looks like they suddenly decided to create a bit of electricity.

Sunday, Monday 12th, 13th

The change came through and Jindabyne is now a pleasant temperature so we moved to a caravan park there ready to do the walks that leave from Thredbo. Gill and Ric have taken a cabin to stay warm – we’re cosy in Priscilla. Went for a short walk around a section of Lake Jindabyne, which our campsite overlooks. Lovely parks and great to walk beside such a beautiful lake.

Afternoon shadows at Lake Jindabyne.

Afternoon shadows at Lake Jindabyne.

Monday we were up at Thredbo by 10am and took the ski lift up some of the way to Kosciuszko. We’re going to the summit again, this time via the Kosciuszko Track which starts at the ski lift at Thredbo Village, then you walk the remainder – 12km round trip. This path to Kosciuszko is very pretty and 90% of it is on metal board walk – so much easier to walk on then gravel or paving rocks.

The many little creeks tumbling down the mountainside are so pretty.

The many little creeks tumbling down the mountainside are so pretty.

We really enjoyed the walk, and not nearly as many people up the top this time. The ski lift down, where you could see the view better, was quite spectacular. That’s twice we’ve been to the top now and walked 3 different routes (there and away), so no need to do it again!

Descending the ski lift - Thredbo below.

Descending the ski lift – Thredbo below.

Dinner tonight in Jindabyne at the Maya Asian restaurant. (OK)

Tuesday 14th

Leaving Jindabyne we restocked everything (water, fuel, food), had breakfast at the Information Centre Cafe – top cafe – parked the motorhome in Thredbo and walked the combined Dead Horse Gap and Thredbo River walks for a total of 11km. The Dead Horse Gap walk took us through beautiful Snowgums. A lot of the gums have died from a fire in the park in 2003, which is a tragedy, but their pure white trunks still look stunning. Plenty of new growth coming through.

Amazing natural sculptural works of art along the Dead Horse Gap track.

Amazing natural sculptural works of art along the Dead Horse Gap track.

 

Falls, on the Thredbo River.

Falls, on the Thredbo River.

Tonight we camped at Ngarigo campsite. This is a fantastic camp beside the Thredbo River. If ever I’m back, try to get the first campsite on the right as you come to the open area again! A campfire this evening kept us happy for many hours.

Wednesday 15th:

I’d like to call today a lazy day because we didn’t go anywhere, nor do any of the lovely walking or cycling along the river you can do from the camp (Ric and Gill did!), but instead I did home maintenance, sorting drawers, labelling spices, and cleaning, and still felt I’d put in a hard day.

Thursday 16th:

Today we move on, but not before another walk. We parked the motorhome and camper at Dead Horse Gap and headed off on the Cascade Hut walk. Ric did the whole walk, Gill, Steve and I only as far as Bob’s Ridge. It was a good out-and-back walk of nearly 10km, the ‘out’ being all uphill. We crossed the Thredbo River which was beautiful, lovely views across valleys and interesting rock formations, but not as stunning as some of the other walks we’ve done.

The view from Bob's Ridge. Look carefully to see Denise through the trees on the far rock.

The view from Bob’s Ridge. Look carefully to see Denise through the trees on the far rock.

This is our last walk in Kosciuszko NP, for the time being. Still plenty more to do on another visit.

We headed out on the Alpine Way, a steep winding road taking us towards our campsite for tonight at Geehi. It’s quite a descent, not recommended for caravans – we did most of it in 2nd or 3rd gear. It was 21C when we started heading down and 30C at Geehi.

The campsite is fantastic – heaps of sites, mostly separated from each other along the Geehi River. We needed a swim! The Geehi R is a typical Alpine River – only about half a metre deep, large granite rocks form the riverbed, crystal clear waters flowing very rapidly and freezing cold! It was heaven.

Lousey picture of our campsite at Geehi. Between the trees is the river. It was a very pleasant campsite.

Lousey picture of our campsite at Geehi. Between the trees is the river. It was a very pleasant campsite.

 

View of Main Range from a lookout as we left Kosciuzsko NP. Interesting to see Carruthers Peak and Mt Sentinel from this angle - we walked up Carruthers Peak on our return trip from Kosciuzsko summit the first time.

View of Main Range from a lookout as we left Kosciuszko NP. Interesting to see Carruthers Peak and Mt Sentinel from this angle – we walked up Carruthers Peak on our return trip from Kosciuszko summit the first time.

To see more photos from our time in Kosciuszko National Park CLICK HERE.

 

Coddiwompling begins

29th January – 4th February 2017:

Sunday 29th: The decision to head off for a long trip of indeterminate length and destination was a sudden one. About 3 weeks ago the stars aligned making it possible for us to leave home for at least 6 months. Not long to prepare for such a long trip!

Our life for a while to come.

Our life for a while to come.

We got away from home just after lunch, only driving a short distance to Ormeau to spend a relaxing time with our friends Siggy and Heather where we solved most of the world’s problems and discussed their plans for their new home – quite an exciting concept.

Monday 30th: Next day (Happy birthday Nick), after a leisurely start we headed to Rod and Chris’s 100 acre property at Upper Orara, inland from Coffs Harbour.
We’ve decided to see if we can reach the main compass points on mainland Australia, so Byron Bay on the way couldn’t be missed.

Counting down the compass points in Australia.

Counting down the compass points in Australia.

Rod has been a friend for many, many years though it was 35 years ago we last caught up. Needless to say the afternoon and evening was spent reminiscing. A toast to good times, and a few more for the future.

Tuesday 31st

A long drive down the Pacific Highway today –  473 km from Rod and Chris’s to Bangalow Campsite in Watagans State Forest. It was a very hot day today with temps in the high 30’s – driving was the place to be! We brunched at Nambucca Heads by the river, and enjoyed a brief stopover at Karuah to pick up some oysters to enjoy with our champagne tonight. As we arrived a line of storms was passing through the area, which made us change our mind about Heaton Lookout, our original destination where rain would possibly make an already pretty bad road dangerous. The road to Bangalow is unsealed with various parts in poor condition with wash-aways and pools of water, but not too steep. The 4WD was barely tested.

Camping in the clouds. Bangalow Campground, Watagans NP

Camping in the clouds. Bangalow Campground, Watagans NP

The campsite is quite small with parking for only about half a dozen vehicles. Only in-vehicle or tent camping is possible as the grassy camping area is separated from the parking. There’s a picnic shelter with table, a gas BBQ (out of order) and the loos, and very pretty little kangaroos. It’s completely surrounded by the forest which made for an ethereal atmosphere as the clouds settled over and amongst the trees. With elevation and the passing of the storm the temperature was pleasant. We spent a peaceful night as the only campers here.

Wednesday 1st February:

After a very relaxing morning we went for a walk. Just down the road is the Gap Creek Falls day use and camping area. The walk isn’t far, maybe 5km return from our campsite, but the path down to the creek to view the falls is very steep with lots of rock hopping and scrambling over rocks that are wet and slippery. However once down the falls are beautiful – nature is the best landscape designer! We loved the plants, the rainforest setting providing a beautiful palette for the falls which feed the pool at the bottom and the shallow creek that bubbles over and around a rocky creek bed.

Gap Creek Falls. Our descent was very nearly as steep at the falls themselves.

Gap Creek Falls. Our descent was very nearly as steep at the falls themselves.

That evening we settled in for another solitary night, only to be surprised (disappointed!) by 2 camper vans arriving within about 20 minutes of each other, well after dark, and parking closely on either side of us. What is it about parking close together when the park is otherwise empty!

Thursday 2nd:

Up early and off today to Kiama to stay with cousin Lynette and Geoff. On the way we dropped in briefly to Trakka at Kuring Gai for a minor problem. As usual a delightful evening chatting, sharing news and reminiscing. Thanks Lyndie and Geoff.

Friday 3rd:

Today we meet up with Ric and Gill who we’ll be bushwalking Kosciusko with. They’re with their cousin Glen and Jen at their beach house in Bendalong. What a delightful little beachside town this is. Their home backs onto the national park and is one block off the beach – the best of both worlds.

We all lunched at St Isadores in Milton, about 20 mins south. The restaurant which is set in beautiful gardens, grows its own vegetables and fruit and has a flock of hens. The food was superb.

Glen, Ric, Jen, Gill, Steve and Denise - just finished a magnificent lunch at St Isadore's in Milton.

Glen, Ric, Jen, Gill, Steve and Denise – just finished a magnificent lunch at St Isadore’s in Milton.

Music and talking till late.

Saturday 4th:

Off to Canberra today to buy some hiking gear. We camped at Cotters Reservoir campground. The campground is on the Cotter River just near the Cotter Dam which was Canberra’s first water supply. Burley-Griffin designed it to have a wall of 90ft, however due to the cost of World War 1, when it was completed in 1915 the wall was only built to 65ft, with popular thinking that that would be adequate. Needless to say the Capital had outgrown it by the 1950s and other dams came online. A major drought prompted the authorities to increase the holding capacity of Cotter Dam and in 2013 it was reopened with a wall height of 87 metres (285ft). I wonder what Burley-Griffin would think?

Anyway we enjoyed a walk around the river to the dam spillway and back in the afternoon before settling down for the night with the hundred or so other campers here tonight.

Bridge over Cotter River. Loved the sleeping ducks.

Bridge over Cotter River. Loved the sleeping ducks.

Click HERE to view other photos from our first week of coddiwompling.

Canberra and back

30th Sept 2016: Home to Crows Nest 85K

Yay, we’re off again! We’ve been attending to home matters for the last couple of months and not able to get away – but today’s the day! We’re taking a week to drive to Canberra to attend the week-long CMCA Rally, then about 3 weeks to drive back home again. Western New South Wales has had lots of rain lately and so we’re hoping to travel that way to enjoy the green.

We got away about 2.30pm with just a short 85km to travel to stay with friends Randall and Catherine in Crows Nest. Nevertheless we did stop at the rest area near Ravensbourne NP to enjoy a cuppa and settle in to the lifestyle.

It was a really good evening catching up with old friends and meeting new friends, Caroline and Brian, in their other dinner guests. Thanks for a great evening and overnight stay C&R.

1st October: Crows Nest to Boomi 360km

We’ve bought a book called, “The Thermal Way” which describes all of Australia’s thermal pools. As our plan to head further west than usual took us through artesian basin country we decided to visit some of these pools.

Our journey took us through the pretty city of Toowoomba,  looking particularly good following the Carnival of Flowers, then south west on the Gore Highway. At Millmerran we happened upon the Australian Camp Oven Festival. This festival is pretty well iconic so we couldn’t just drive on past. It’s very well organised with parking some distance away, but free mini busses every few minutes to take you to the venue. Entry fee was a bit steep ($30 ea), particularly as we knew we could only stay a short while. Anyway we wandered around checking out all the displays and camp ovens bubbling away, enjoyed the country musician while we ate lunch, bought some jerky to snack on our travels and continued our journey.

Camp ovens everywhere!

Camp ovens everywhere!

We paused for a cuppa on the banks of the MacIntyre River at Goondiwindi, the border town between NSW and Qld and home of Australia’s most famous horse, Gundsynd. Despite there being thermal pools here we continued on to our ultimate destination for the evening, Boomi (pronounced boom-eye) where we checked in at 4.30pm, half an hour before the thermal pool closed!

That was long enough to change into swimmers and soak up ‘the waters’ – our weary driving muscles very appreciative. Divine. The pool is small, maybe 10 metres by 3, but had underwater jets and water pouring in from pipes above water as well – perfectly placed for massaging. A lovely pool I highly recommend.

What a hotty! Boomi Thermal Spring

What a hotty! Boomi Thermal Spring

This bore draws water from the artesian basin some 1000m below. It was constructed in 1905 and revamped in 1975. The water in the pool is maintained at between 37 and 38 degrees. The township is very small and was in decline before a group of locals formed a cooperative which runs the General Store and camping area beside the thermal pool, and organised re-opening of the post office and a fuel station (the pub had continued to do well!). Tourism, particularly by those who like to soak in hot pools, increased dramatically as evidenced by there being about 15 RVs here tonight.

Camp: quiet, on bitumen, $10 per night unpowered plus $5 ea for access to the pool. Not a scenic campsite.

2nd Oct: Boomi to Collarenabri 195km

After a peaceful night’s sleep we headed back to the pool for another dip before continuing our journey. That’s definitely the way to start a day – very invigorating.

As previously mentioned it’s been raining out west – raining a lot! So much so that the Newell, one of our busiest highways, particularly for heavy transports, is flooded over quite a large area. Needless to say when that road is closed, there’s lots of others that are too.

Our plan is to visit the thermal pool at Mundingi (mund-ng-i) but the unsealed road that is the shortest route to it has a ‘water over road’ warning on it. I rang the police station and they said it’s open so go for it. It was a lovely, lonely drive through green wheat fields and flat as far as the eye can see. I see why they named this area the ‘western plains’. When it’s not wheat the paddocks are covered in yellow or purple wildflowers which look stunning against the crystal clear blue skies.

We came to the ‘water across road’ – about 50 metres of the road was flooded with still water. In good 4WD fashion I hopped out and walked it, checking for depth, potholes and stability of the surface and crocodiles! (No I’m not serious about the crocs!)

Fun roads to travel! From Boomi to Mundingi

Fun roads to travel! From Boomi to Mundingi

Arriving in Mundingi we stopped outside the thermal pool but neither of us felt like a swim so we drove to the rest area by the Barwon River and had a cuppa. The Barwon, which is flooded and still rising, forms a section of the border between Qld and NSW.

Steve checking out the flood waters. Barwon River, Mungindi

Steve checking out the flood waters. Barwon River, Mungindi

While there, a Council worker pulled in for a break. Our next leg, to Collarenabri, was also over an unsealed road which had been noted as closed – until today. I asked the chap what it was like and he said it is open but very rough and advised we take a different route – still unsealed, but not in such bad condition. Great advice!

At Colly, as it’s known to the locals, we camped at the free camp just out of town with about 5 other RV’s. Plenty of room for all. A very good camp with clean amenities, including hot showers. We went for a walk over the bridge over the Barwon River and around a town block. It’s Sunday and everything is closed, with heavy duty roller doors (ominous!) – no window shopping here. Stopped at the pub to have a drink and to show support for a little town that supports travellers, then back to Priscilla for dinner. The mozzies were plentiful, but not a problem with our screens and mozzie mister.

However … the house batteries were flat. There was very little draw on them. Even after starting the car they only held that charge for another couple of hours. Damn! Looks like we need new batteries. That changes our plans!

3rd Oct: Collarenabri to Boggabri 255km

Instead of continuing our planned western adventure we turned towards Tamworth where we could get new batteries. Today though is a public holiday so nothing can be done until tomorrow.

We got away early, around 9.15, and headed down to the thermal pool at Burren Junction. This bore was sunk to 690 metres back in 1921 and flows into a ‘pool’ with a diameter of 15 metres. It’s raining today, and cold. The campsite beside the ‘pool’ where we’d planned to stay, is muddy. Anyway it took a bit of convincing but we did slip into our togs and dashed to the pool. Not a salubrious pool – just a round tank really with very hot water pouring in from a pipe. It was too deep to touch the bottom and the narrow underwater seat around the edge was covered in slime. Still, a quick dog paddle around the tank and back to hold on to the steps while chatting to the only other couple there was refreshing. And the dash through the cold and rain to the motorhome even more invigorating.

We continued the trip via Narrabri and on to Boggabri, stopping at the delightful, low cost campsite at the Old Baan Baa State School for a cuppa. Wish we could have stayed there, but they didn’t have powered sites and we need power now to keep our fridge going.

Stayed tonight on a powered site at Boggabri Showgrounds ($22). Site grassy, but amenities not great.

Are you seeing a theme here with the town names? They’re all aboriginal words from the Kamilaroi people with various aptly descriptive meanings, and rhyme with ‘by’.

4th Oct: Boggabri to The Black Stump 315km

We were up early this morning and away by 7.45. Not knowing how long they’d take replacing the batteries we wanted to give them maximum time. We travelled to Tamworth via Gunnedah, which is a very attractive town. At Tamworth we went straight to Battery World and they fitted us in immediately.

We wandered over the road to Ruby’s Cafe which really is a gem, and not only in name! Very friendly staff, fantastic service and we both enjoyed a delicious breakfast. What we saw of Tamworth we really liked.

Two hours later we were off with two new batteries, and quite a few less dollars.

Continuing our south-westward travels we cut across to Werris Creek and then via Colly Blue (what a great name for a town) to our camp for the night at The Black Stump, a free camp. We much prefer ‘the roads less travelled’ and really enjoyed this part of the trip through rolling green hills with hardly any other traffic.

In the early 1800’s there was a property in this area called Black Stump, The local Aboriginal Gamilaraay people were said to have called the area ‘Weetalibah-Wallangan’, meaning, ‘the place where the fire went out and left a burnt stump’. The common Aussie saying, ‘beyond the black stump’ means beyond the limits of civilisation. And that’s where we are now.

We're camped for the night just behind the photographer.

We’re camped for the night just behind the photographer.

This afternoon we snuck through the fence behind the camping area and took a walk up the paddock to the top of a hill. Up the top the farmer has a couple of paddocks of sheep. With the recent rain and such lovely rich soil everywhere it’s so green and the sheep look particularly healthy – and the many lambs so cute.

A quiet night with only two other RVs, but pretty chilly.

5th Oct: The Black Stump to Kandos (208km)

We were reluctant to leave here this morning. It’s such a pretty outlook and a day of no travel wouldn’t go astray. We took the country roads, avoiding the highway as much as we could, to Mudgee. I know Australia has many differing landscapes all with their own beauty, but I must say my favourite is rolling hills and valleys, particularly when they’re as lush and green as they were today. It was mostly sheep and cattle, some coal mines and then the vineyards started. Lovely drive.

At Mudgee we had a hot drink at a cafe, then lunch by the river before seeking out a vineyard to sample some of their wares. Couldn’t leave without supporting the local industry now could we?

From Mudgee we continued via the back roads to Kandos. It’s raison d’etre used to be mining for lime and the cement industry. This little town supplied much of the cement for the Sydney Harbour Bridge. But that was some time back and both industries have long since closed and today it’s a quiet little town with an ever increasing number of closed stores.

We’re camped at the Old Railway Station – a very good free camp on well-tended grass. Very quiet, no traffic and just one other RV. This is not a friendly town – no one spoke to us except a local complaining we were blocking the entry to the Men’s Shed.

6th Oct: Kandos to Boorowa (280km)

Another beautiful drive today with limestone mining, cattle and sheep farms giving way to spectacular fields of bright yellow canola flowers.

Had to stop to photograph this lovely countryside.

Had to stop to photograph this lovely countryside.

We passed through Bathurst where they were getting ready for the Bathurst 500 (motor racing) this weekend at Mt Panorama and headed down to Cowra. We’ve visited Cowra previously but had never been to the Japanese Gardens. During WWII Japanese prisoners were held here and staged a quite famous escape. Some were killed in the attempt and buried here, their graves cared for respectfully by the locals. When the town decided to create these gardens in memory of those times Japan was quite generous in their donations of money and expertise in thanks for their care of the war graves. We lunched at the cafe before exploring the magnificent gardens. It’s a place you mustn’t miss.

These gardens leave you feeling very serene.

These gardens leave you feeling very serene.

At Boorowa we camped at the caravan park. We walked into town and were struck by how friendly everyone in this little town is. A drink at the pub was made fun by the bright and chirpy barmaid who happily chatted to us and later we enjoyed a chat with the happy publican.

Boorowa Hotel

Boorowa Hotel

To see more photos from the first week of our trip click on this link.

7th – 15th Oct Boorowa to EPIC, Canberra.

We left Boorowa early this morning covering the 115km pretty quickly.

Here we are at the CMCA Rally, along with about 760 other motorhomes. The CMCA has taken over the EPIC site in Canberra entirely. We’ve been cited on the oval, which is quite pleasantly grassed. It’s all very well organised by a large group of volunteers. We’ve got a powered site and water close enough to hook up to to fill the tanks.

All the activities are in the buildings around the grounds with marketing displays, a food court, seminar rooms, the main conference area and numerous other buildings for craft activities, small meetings or just for a cuppa.

On the Saturday morning the farmers markets were on. Wow! Great markets! Lots of stalls selling grass-fed meat, organic chicken, pastured eggs and organic veggies. I stocked up on all of these. Unfortunately we were often too busy to cook a proper meal.

Wonderful organic or free-range produce available every Saturday at the Farmer's Market at EPIC.

Wonderful organic or free-range produce available every Saturday at the Farmer’s Market at EPIC.

Apart from all the activities organised for us we also rode the bikes into Dickson, wandered the shops and had a meal out at a Japanese restaurant. Another day we caught the bus (free public transport for us!) into the city.

The evening entertainment was mostly very good, with an excellent Big Band with great vocalists one night and a fantastic comedian another night being highlights. Most nights we danced a little to the music. Friday night was the Ball. That was fun with most dressed up in outfits befitting Floriade. At our table we were with new friends Marianne and Robert from Adelaide.

The nightly entertainment was excellent. We were treated to excellent bands and entertainers.

The nightly entertainment was excellent. We were treated to excellent bands and entertainers.

From the list of seminar sessions we chose to attend the ones that suited us. After the ‘RV-ing in USA’ session Steve has wiped that idea off the Bucket List, and I’ve put our conquering of the Canning Stockroute on indefinite hold. We both enjoyed the sessions on volunteer tutoring for isolated children, insurance and also how to use the Geowiki. A couple of the sessions weren’t very professionally presented, unfortunately. But, I guess they’re all volunteers.

I did a couple of craft lessons, making Christmas decorations for the grandchildren one day, and learning a new stitch to make a bookmark (like I need another bookmark!) on another day. They were both enjoyable workshops chatting with the other women.

We booked a tour to Floriade one day. The tour guide was a real fizzer, but the tulips at Floriade quite spectacular.

The sign describes the theme for this particular garden bed.

The sign describes the theme for this particular garden bed.

After we’d finished there we met friends Brenda and Owen from Cairns and their 3 daughters, their partners and grandson for lunch at Regatta Point Cafe. Great to catch up with the whole family after many, many years and Regatta Point is in a great location overlooking the lake.

The following day we did the ‘Nooks and Crannies of the Parliamentary Zone’ tour. That was very good. The guide took us to places you might not normally go to, such as the High Court, Reconciliation Place and the National Library. We also spent some time at the National Portrait Gallery – checking out the Archibald Prize entries from this and previous years.

Sculptures in Reconciliation Place.

Sculptures in Reconciliation Place.

15th, 16th October EPIC Canberra to Yass 99km

The Rally is over. But it’s market day – a happy hour was spent buying organic fruit, veggies, meat and eggs at the EPIC Farmers’ Market, before heading off. On the way out we went to see the arboretum.

The National Arboretum features 94 forests of rare, endangered and symbolic trees from around Australia and the world. Many of the trees are still young but two of the forests are nearly 100 hundred years old. Over 44,000 trees from over 100 countries are growing across the huge 250 hectare (618 acre) site, making it one of the world’s largest living collections of rare, endangered and significant trees.

We didn’t feel inclined to view the information centre but enjoyed our drive up to Dairy Farmers Hill Lookout through many of these established and establishing forests. The view over the arboretum to Canberra and the lake is superb, as is the opposite direction to the Australian Alps.

The National Arboretum continues to grow, under watchful eyes.

The National Arboretum continues to grow, under watchful eyes.

To see more photos from our week in Canberra click on this link.

 

We headed off towards Yass, only to be waylaid by signs directing us to Wily Trout Vineyard and lunch at Poachers Pantry. Mmmm a delay thoroughly enjoyed.

At Yass, an RVFT, we camped right beside the Yass River at Joe O’Connor Park, a free camp. This is a beautiful spot – very scenic and quiet. Our campsite opens up onto the river just a couple of metres away with a grassy hill on the opposite side. Definitely recommend it. We’re staying here for two nights.

A beautiful free camp alongside the Yass River. Quiet and very relaxing.

A beautiful free camp alongside the Yass River. Quiet and very relaxing.

We’d picked up a walking tour of the town leaflet from the Information Centre on our way into town, so on our rest day we took a look around. Yass is a beautiful town with many historical buildings, most well cared for. It’s an easy walk along pathways from the camping area to the weir, then over the bridge and into town. This is the warmest and sunniest day we’ve had since leaving home making our walk even more pleasant.

Country Charm indeed! Look at that intricate iron lace work.

Country Charm indeed! Look at that intricate iron lace work. Yass

Apart from the ‘best coffee ever’ from the Rose Cafe, a highlight was Banjo Paterson Park. Banjo grew up around this district, just up the road at Binalong. What an interesting life he led.

The afternoon was spent reading and cooking, while the Superb Fairy Wrens flitted about and the ducks made swimming look easy.

17th October: Yass to Temora 153 km

A family mob of about 6 or 7 kangaroos grazing directly across the river from us made my morning cuppa in bed all the more enjoyable.

Today we drove past lush green fields, a few canola farms just beginning to bloom, many sheep properties with lots of lambs and one or two Angus cattle farms. The countryside is still rolling hills, but we’re starting to see more plains now.

At Binalong we drove around the town – a prosperous, cared-for town with many of its historical civic buildings still being used.

At Springdale we stopped, thinking we may spend the night, but it’s still early and there are many trucks on this road and the campsite is alongside the road. The Newell Highway is still closed south of Forbes and I think truck traffic is heavier here because of it. The roads are in pretty poor condition – potholes everywhere.

We headed on to Temora and parked in the free camp beside the railway station. The railway station has been restored beautifully, bringing back memories of a bygone era. We enjoyed a 3km or so walk through town past beautiful old buildings built in the early 1900’s to the Information Centre. Here we were treated to all the entries in this year’s Bald Archies. The Bald Archy prize was created as a spoof of the ‘serious’ Archibald Prize for portraiture. It’s an opportunity for artists to create their portrait paintings of humour, dark satire, light comedy or caricature. It’s usually quite topical, of people who made headlines in the previous 12 months.  Bronwyn Bishop, Malcolm Turnbull of course and the tennis player Kyrios featured a few times as did Clive Palmer. Most of them were very good.

I asked about the possibility of trains through the night and was assured by the lovely Information lady that only one or two trains a week went through. Guess how many I counted between arriving back from our walk and leaving the next day …. NINE!! Not a restful night.

18th October: Temora to Yarran Farm, Weethalle 176km

Today we’ve booked in to a You Camp farmstay outside Weethalle (pronounced w’tharly). On the way we stopped at the historic town of Arian Park. All the now-closed shops in the Main Street have their front windows set up to display historical items and lifestyles – the only places still open in the town are the pub and a cafe, but not when we were there (mid morning on a week day!)

Yarran Park Farmstay is in the middle of wheat and sheep country. Keith, the owner, breeds angora goats, merino sheep, alpacas and grows wheat, oats and barley. It’s a 1600 acre farm he manages on his own. He’s keen to farm as sustainably and ethically as he can. He’s selectively breeding merinos that won’t need mulesing, which is a barbaric practice you can google if you want to know about it, and angoras and alpacas with very fine wool. He has two Maremma dogs he runs with the angoras that are having kids. They are such gorgeous dogs and keep the goats safe from dingoes and foxes.

One of the two Maremma dogs used to guard the angora goats at Yarran Farm.

One of the two Maremma dogs used to guard the angora goats at Yarran Farm.

He farms his crops without fertilisers and uses a minimum of weed killer. His property has been planned using some permaculture techniques to protect and enrich the soil and swales to help with water retention. It’s certainly working – his crops are lush and healthy.

19th, 20th October Yarran Farm to Griffith 120km

This morning I did a two hour farm tour with Keith which I thoroughly enjoyed. It has really renewed my faith in some farmers at least doing their best to protect and enhance their farm soils.

Keith assured me this is a very healthy crop. He feels his farming practices of caring for the soil and using an absolute minimum of chemicals is why his crops are so healthy.

Keith assured me this is a very healthy crop. He feels his farming practices of caring for the soil and using an absolute minimum of chemicals is why his crops are so healthy.

Poor Steve is suffering severely with hay fever, particularly his eyes – rye grass is blooming everywhere!

Keith recommended we go to Griffith which has just had its garden festival and still has the orange sculptures lining the Main Street. These were fun to see.

griffith_orange_festival5

Griffith is an interesting town, designed by Burley Griffin. The Italian mafia moved in here and established a thriving drug trade back in the mid 20th century, achieving scandalous notoriety for the murder of anti-drugs campaigner Donald Mackay which even I still remember. There are many mansions in the town and the cemetery has huge family mausoleums made of Italian marble. Italian ethnicity here is about 60% of the population.

The parks around the town centre are pretty amazing. The children’s park is huge and has every possible climbing or swinging apparatus ever made, even a pretty cool flying fox.

20th October: Steve’s birthday. Today was a day of indulgences. We started the day at McWilliams Wines where we booked in for the tour of the vineyard and a tasting platter to complete the tour. Its a huge business and they’re expanding. I particularly liked the first vines grown in the area, and the laboratory where there were wine tasters tasting an array of wines – so seriously though, not the way I like to taste wine!

A little history of the first vines grown (MIA = Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area). Those vines have seen many changes to the art and science of viticulture and wine making.

A little history of the first vines grown (MIA = Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area). Those vines have seen many changes to the art and science of viticulture and wine making.

From there we went to DeBortoli and did a little more sampling. We may have had to buy a bottle or two at each of these places, just to support the town though!

Ah he's found his favourite wine, which just happens to be his namesake.

Ah he’s found his favourite wine, which just happens to be his namesake.

After that it was back to Priscilla to get ready for our big night out. We had the most divine meal at Limone. This small restaurant is constructed out of all recycled timbers and has an open kitchen – only maybe 8 tables. The menu was a set 3 courses, and used all local produce, either from their own farm or from local growers. Between courses, and after the meal, they offered us delicious canapés and tasters. It was a wonderful evening to celebrate Steve’s birthday.

21st October: Griffith to Beckom (94km)

Time to start heading home. Our plans are being dictated to us by road closures. The Newell Highway south of Forbes is still closed and the Kidman Way, our preferred route, is also closed not far north of here.

But before leaving, the local small goods manufacturer, Codemo, has been recommended to us. A tasting of their salamis proved to be a worthy recommendation, and we left with two lovely salamis and some bacon. The butcher strongly recommended we visit Calabria Wines, not far from them, so we did. Their wines were very good and a few more bottles found their way into the motorhome. Up to the lookout over Griffith next. Not many hills around Griffith, but this one is quite nice and an added interest is the hermits cave. After WWII a man came up here and lived his life in an open cave, terracing a little of the hill to grow vegetables and flowers. There’s also a museum up here explaining the Italian settlement here and the Murrumbidgee irrigation scheme, but we didn’t visit as we were heading back for the tour of the Fruit Salad farm.

An information board about the Hermit of Griffith. He sounded like a very interesting person in his day.

An information board about the Hermit of Griffith. He sounded like a very interesting person in his day.

Joe has lived on this 50 acre farm since his father bought it 55 years ago. They have several different fruit and nut trees, but predominately they grow grapes and sugar plums. The plums are first dried, on their property, ie, now prunes, then sold to Ardmona. Sugar plums are my favourite plum and command a good price for the farmer, but Joe can’t sell his that way because his trees are much older and haven’t been grown correctly for the harvester. As it is he has a ‘shaker on the back of his tractor which attaches to each trunk and shakes the tree until the fruit fall off onto a large tarp on the ground. It’s a bit more sophisticated than I’ve described, but that’s the principle.

We left Joe’s with a bag of prunes, a bottle of his red wine and a bottle of mustard that his wife makes. It was a good tour, more so in learning about their farming way of life, now and back then.

We’d already spent two nights at the 24-hour-only free camp beside the river so we headed off eastward, farewelling Griffith, to find a place for the night. The little town of Beckom had a good write up in WikiCamps, offering power and water at a free site beside their disused bowling club. A drink at the pub a little later found us chatting away to the very friendly locals. The flood waters had once again flooded some houses in their main street – many still hadn’t moved the sand bags.

22nd October Beckom to Carcoar Dam 302km

Today was decision day – keep heading north, or head east first. Steve’s hay fever has been quite severe and another week of rye grass wasn’t appealing, so eastward we travelled via West Wyalong, Grenfell, Cowra to Carcoar Dam. As we left the irrigated Griffith area orange orchards and vineyards very quickly were replaced by wheat and sheep again, and soon the flat plains became rolling hills, all so green and pretty.

We drove around the historic village of Carcoar before heading up to the dam for the night. It was quite busy but we managed to snag ourselves a level spot (not many of them) with great views over the dam to the green, sheep-dotted hills, boasting an array of wind turbines on the ridge.

Sunset from our campsite at Carcoar Dam.

Sunset from our campsite at Carcoar Dam.

23rd October: Carcoar Dam to First Fleet Memorial Park Wallabadah 439km

Another long drive today north then east again via Bathurst, Mudgee and Scone to Wallabadah and Steve’s hay fever has improved!

This campsite offers hot showers, flushing loos and beautiful gardens commemorating the arrival of the First Fleet and Australia’s first white settlers, and merely ask for a donation of $10 – well worth it! The names of all those on each of the ships has been carved by a stonemason onto tablets distributed around the garden pathways. The stories of those who arrived on the ships, their life, and first encounters with the Australian country are presented throughout the Garden. Well done and thank you Wallabadah.

Beautifully presented gardens with lots of information on the First Fleets.

Beautifully presented gardens with lots of information on the First Fleets.

To see more photos from this week of our travels click on this link.

24th -25th October Wallabadah to Wollomombi 207km

We’d passed a couple of National Parks on our way north but all were closed due to the recent heavy rains. We were both getting a bit ‘titchy’ doing long drives along roads with white lines, much preferring the little roads with overhanging trees and no lane markings. At this point we could either continue west of the Great Dividing Range or head for the coast. Seeing Steve was now feeling much better we decided to remain west-ish and see if we could get some bushwalking in. We travelled north to Tamworth and stopped at Moonbi Lookout for lunch before heading on towards Armidale.

The view down the New England Highway towards Tamworth from Moonbi Hill Lookout.

The view down the New England Highway towards Tamworth from Moonbi Hill Lookout.

At Armidale we at last left the highway to spend the night at Wollomombi Falls Campground in the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park We’ve walked these walks before with Trish and Bryan, though there is promise of more water in the waterfalls this time!

We stayed two nights thoroughly enjoying the break from the road and giving us plenty of time to do all the walks.

This campsite has excellent campfire facilities, even providing firewood. Both nights we cooked our meal on the BBQ. Our two nights camped here in the bush were very quiet with only one or two other campers. Saw a lyrebird, but he wasn’t nterested in calling.

Yes Steve, that fire deserves a thumbs up.

Yes Steve, that fire deserves a thumbs up.

26th – 27th October: Wollomombi to Mann River Nature Reserve 189km

We stopped at Glen Innes as we left to catch up on all things electronic (no wifi at Wollomombi, nor where we’re headed for the next few days). We picked up lots of maps at the Information Centre then headed out to Mann River Nature Reserve. Our sources said it was a tricky road in and they weren’t wrong, the last 14km being a sealed, single lane, very steep downhill road with tight hairpin bends.. We had no trouble coming down in 2nd gear, but we were pleased we didn’t meet a vehicle on the way up.

We were surprised to find 4 other campers there, though shouldn’t have been as it’s a beautiful location right beside the Mann River which bubbles over granite rocks right beside our campsite. The camp grounds are large and mowed, with lots of whip-tail kangaroos, some so placid you can stroke them.

The Mann River and wildflowers taken from our campsite.

The Mann River and wildflowers taken from our campsite.

There’s a walk to Tommy’s Rock Lookout just up the road from here. Tommy was an aboriginal bushranger who was a bit of a larrikin. I knew when we parked Priscilla at the start to the walk that I’d regret this! The walk was 4.5 km just about straight up along a fire trail. There was a warning sign saying it was very steep. They weren’t wrong! It went relentlessly upward and very steeply with countless 2-3 metre high conservation mounds every few metres, some so steep it was hard to walk up them. And the road base was pebbly, making slipping and falling a constant worry. It took us 2 hours to walk up (I don’t do hills very fast) and 1 hour for the 4.5km descent. Once at the top the fire trail branched with no signs indicating which way to go. We must have chosen the wrong way as we didn’t find a lookout.  The exercise was badly needed, so not complaining – much!

This was the only view we got of anything other then trees and a steadily increasing slope in front of us. Halfway up the Tommy's Rock Lookout walk.

This was the only view we got of anything other then trees and a steadily increasing slope in front of us. Halfway up the Tommy’s Rock Lookout walk.

Good facilities at this campsite too for campfires and BBQs but no wood.

28th – 29th October: Mann River to Boundary Campsite, Washpool NP (49km

Short drive today up the mountain and along the Gwydir H’way to Boundary Campsite, just at the boundary (fancy that!) of Washpool NP. We were late to leave and once set up here neither of us felt like doing the walks yet; besides it kept sprinkling with rain.

Steve managed to get a reasonably good fire going despite the wet timber and we BBQ’d our dinner.

29th: Walk day today. We set off under lovely clear skies and pleasant temperature to walk the 8km return to Duffer Falls, then the 2.5km return to Lyrebird Falls lookout, then the 400 metres return (including 120 steps!) to the base of Boundary Falls.

The path down to Duffer Falls.

The path down to Duffer Falls.

The track to Duffer Falls was mostly along fire trails with just the last 250 metres a narrow, steep path down to the falls. The gorges here are quite spectacular. The wildflowers on this walk were beautiful. Not long after we left the falls big, black clouds started rolling in and the thunder was quite intimidating; however, luckily we didn’t get more than a few spits on us. On  our return it looked like it had rained pretty heavily on the last part of the track and at the campsite.

Boundary Falls was just wonderful. Not particularly high, or gushing but coming over the granite cliff into a beautiful pool then flowing gently out via a shallow, granite rock lined creek. Just beautiful.

Boundary Falls. Well worth all those steps.

Boundary Falls. Well worth all those steps.

30th October: Boundary Campsite to Tenterfield 199km

Today we headed for Tenterfield to spend the night with our good friends Pammy and Milton. From Glen Innes we took the “Tourist Route” via Emmaville, Torrington and Stannum. Lovely drive, mostly sealed roads and the unsealed sections were in good condition. We stopped for lunch beside the bridge over Beardy Creek – great spot, level area off the road beside the very pretty creek under pine trees – we both thought this would make a great free camp for one day in the future. Also, just before we hit the New England highway was a camping area which has 5 stars on WikiCamps and good comments. Worthwhile remembering.

We had our usual great evening with Pammy and Milton, assisting Milton to reduce his cellar by two bottles of red both over 10 years old, catching up on families and talking motorhoming.

31st Oct – 4th Nov: Tenterfield to Girraween NP (37km)

We drove through rain and arrived at Girraween in the drizzle. Yet another time the motorhome comes into its own – we just made ourselves compfy, made lunch and relaxed until the rain stopped. Trish and Bryan arrived mid afternoon and we spent the afternoon and evening catching up and BBQ-ing dinner. Coincidently we’d nearly finished cooking our food when I saw a man looking around to see which BBQ he could use, so I called out to offer him ours. Turns out it was Brian and Caroline, the new friends we met at Randall and Catherine’s the very first night of this trip. 

The next two days was spent predominantly doing the walks. The longest, steepest and most difficult was Mt Norman, the rewards of spectacular views and an amazing array of wildflowers was well worth it. We completed the Sphinx and Castle Rock walks on the way.

Yay! We all made it to the top. Mt Norman, Girraween NP

Yay! We all made it to the top. Mt Norman, Girraween NP

The next day we walked the southern walks along the creeks and to the junction of Ramsay and Bald Rock Creeks, with a little stopover at the Arch on the way. In the afternoon we took a drive to a local vineyard, just to make sure we didn’t run out of supplies.

Posing, at The Arch.

Posing, at The Arch.

There was no more rain after the first morning and the weather was beautiful, though still chilly at night.

Thursday Bryan and Trish headed home and we spent the last day of our holiday totally resting, reading books.

5th November: Girraween to home 287km

Well that was a very enjoyable 5 weeks away. We went places we haven’t been before and learnt how we best like to travel. We’re settling in to how we use Priscilla better and are feeling much more prepared for some long trips away now.

To see the photos from our last two weeks of travels click on this link.

To see all the photos from this trip click on this link.

Awards night

With 10 weeks and 703km of sailing behind us it’s important that we recognise the good and the ‘less good’ of the trip at this awards ceremony.

Nominations for the Sailor Jerry’s Rum award:

sailor_jerry

  1. Whitsunday islands. These are the most magnificent sailing grounds in the world, with beautiful sandy white beaches, the bluest turquoise seas, mostly clear blue skies, lush green islands, coral in a million colours and textures, and myriads of fish so pretty and inquisitive.
  2. Top Shelf. What a beautiful boat. She never let us down once, never felt unsafe in her, she beat a keel-yacht by a mile when sailing into the wind and she took us places we’d never be able to go without her.
  3. Weather. With temperatures between the low and high 20’s, only a few days rain, storms that mostly missed us, and winds that allowed us to sail at least 75% of the time, there can be few complaints about the weather.
  4. Ray, the autohelm. For his inaugural trip Ray was a wild success allowing us to sit back relaxing while he gently guided us in the direction instructed.
  5. Trailer. We spent a good penny or two on a quality trailer before leaving Brisbane for the 2400km journey. It towed like a dream.
  6. Norbert, who not only kept our car and trailer safely out of harms way at his home in Airlie Beach for 10 weeks, but also collected it from the Mackay marina and drove it to his home.
  7. Milk bottle showers. Just enough fresh water to rinse off the salt.
  8. Noodle covers. We used the legs of dark-coloured tights to cover the noodles on the cockpit safety lines. They were cheap and prevented sun deterioration.
  9.  Boom tent. Erected every time we anchored. The tent and bimini covered the boat from mast to stern giving us beautiful shade. The guy who designed and built this for us deserves a medal!

    On Curlew Beach, Macona Inlet

    The fixed bimini at the back shades us while sailing and holds the solar panel which provided all our power. The boom tent zipped securely to it, hooked on the side stanchions and tied around the mast to give the cabin and cockpit total shade.

  10. Stable tables. We took a small fold-up table, but the Stable Tables (trays with bean bag base) were perfect for meals in the cockpit, balancing computers, holding our ‘sundowners’ drinks and snacks, etc.
  11. Welding clamps instead of pegs. Fit over the rails of the bimini perfectly to attach towels, etc to dry with no chance of not holding in a breeze.
  12. No More Tears in the goggles. Brilliant! Stops goggles fogging up when snorkelling.
  13. Non-slip surface stuck to the round table in the galley. Have previously had breakages from unexpected swells rolling the boat, but not this time.
  14. Midgie screens. We had screens made of midgie (sand-fly) netting to in-fill the gap between boat and pop-top and also the washboard (ie the ‘door’ to the cabin). That, combined with our all-natural, DEET-free Mozzie and Sandfly atomiser and cream prevented sandflies being a problem to us completely. Interestingly, Hook Is is infamous for its March Flies – not this trip; rarely saw even one.Mozzie_stuff
  15. Hand-held VHF radio was useful to use in the cockpit. Main radio is in the cabin.
  16. Two black towels. These lived in the cockpit and found a million uses – and never looked dirty.
  17. iSailor. Using this iPhone/iPad navigation app we planned our tracks every day, GPS locator showed exactly where we were all the time and it recorded our routes. It’s worth it’s weight in gold!

AND THE GRAND WINNER IS:

Pammy and Milton who house-sat for us. Keeping the grass and weeds in order, keeping an eye on all the birds, caring for our home, collecting our mail, doing our banking (which was no mean feat!) and leaving us worry-free to enjoy our trip.  Thank you Pammy and Milton.Pam_Milton

Unfortunately for every trip with highlights there are also lowlights, so now we move to the
Walk the Plank award nominees.

  1. The deflating tender. Too late we learnt that inflatable tenders built in China are held together with heat-sensitive glue which melts in our tropical conditions.
  2. The tender outboard. Mostly reliable, or is that a contradiction of terms. When sailing it’s 100% reliability or nothing!
  3. Drying out. We still have lessons to learn on how to do this successfully.See that fin thing underneath - that's the skeg, and what caused us to lean uncomfortably, for a while.
  4. Red rope on the rudder. Too hard to explain here, but suffice to say Steve is still having nightmares about the red rope that without fail jammed EVERY time the rudder had to be raised. To free it he had to have more than half his body hanging out of the back of the boat, head down. Not a happy chappy.
  5. Antifoul routine. We started too late and with less dedication than we should to keep the hull from growing marine life, even barnacles. We now have hours of painstaking hull cleaning in front of us.

And the grand winner is:
Fluffy Muffy. Do not jest!! This is the name of one of the chartered catamarans. Every day we’d listen to the bareboat charterer’s scheds for the weather, good anchorages, or anchorages to avoid due to them all heading there, and we laughed at Fluffy Muffy each time she called in. UNTIL the day we met Fluffy Muffy leaving Abell Point via the very narrow lane of the marina as we entered it. Heart in mouth as we reversed dodging pontoons, million-dollar boats and Fluffy Muffy as she passed.

This is THE Fluffy Muffy! We soon leant not to take her name in vain!

This is THE Fluffy Muffy! Never again will we take her name in vain!

Ideas for next time:

  • Beach chairs – to sit comfortably on the beach.
  • No table (stable tables good enough)
  • No kayak. Too much hassle trying to inflate onboard, therefore not used as much as we’d have liked.
  • Stand up paddle boards. Just an idea … saw plenty of people with them. They’re light, easily stored, ready to use in minutes and would replace the kayak. Just have to learn the skill.
  • Seawater pump in galley.

13 – 18th Nov: The final leg

Friday 13th November: Hamilton to Macona

Arrggh! Our marina berth was near the pub! Live music last night till midnight, good muso luckily, then a group kept it up on their boat till 4am! Definitely time to leave in search of tranquility.

We’ve a few things left do before our trip ends. Most of them are much better with south easterly winds and the forecast today is just exactly for that. We left Hamilton after filling the larder, putting dinner in the Dreampot to cook  and waiting for an Express Post envelope that should be here by now and isn’t – marina office staff not very helpful in that respect.

The first two hours of the sail was magic as we ran north with a 10 – 15kn south-easterly and the tide. At 1pm the wind stopped and we were becalmed. At this point we usually pull down the sails and motor, but seeing we’ve got all day we sat it out and half an hour later it came back as a north-easterly – we were now close-hauled tacking our way north – still great sailing. Before we got to Macona it had moved around more easterly, stronger and gusty. Fickle winds!

The new forecast came out this afternoon and it’s now for stronger northerlies – damn, that’s stuffed our plans. Lucky we enjoyed the fabulous sail today so we’re not too upset about being up here now!

Saturday

We tossed up whether to sail all the way back south again to do the ‘northern winds activities’ we still want to do or stay here. We decided to stay, but moved to Curlew Beach, a tiny sand beach just inside Macona Inlet where we spent the day reading, hull cleaning and swimming. Heaven.

On Curlew Beach, Macona Inlet

On Curlew Beach, Macona Inlet

As the tide ebbed we motored around the corner intending to pick up a mooring at False Nara and dispatch more of those oysters, but all moorings (ie all 2!) were taken so into Nara Inlet to settle for the night. The problem with Nara is that it is deep its entire length. If we had a windlass to pull up the anchor, as has every boat bigger than us, we wouldn’t care if we have to put out 60 meters of chain, but when it’s poor Steve pulling it in we prefer shallower anchorages!

Sunday

With south-easterlies forecast for later tomorrow we thought we’d jump the gun and get out to the good snorkelling site at Border Is early, before any wind arrived, then head up to the northern Hook anchorages to enjoy the best snorkelling there when the southerlies come in.
We left Nara at 5.30am – once through Hook Passage the swell at 1 – 1.5m hit us broadside and the northerly wind was already up. We persisted for a while, hating every minute then decided the plan was flawed and turned around.

We stopped at an unnamed beach in Hook Passage (anchorage #2), anchoring just off the fringing coral, de-stressed, ate breakfast and had a lovely swim and snorkel over the corals, admiring the fish. So not a complete waste.
Just as we were about to leave the damn painter got caught in the prop stopping the engine. Down went the anchor again in a hurry and Steve spent the next 10 minutes upside down in the engine well trying to unravel it. Lesson learnt!

We motored back to Curlew Beach, pulled up the keel and rudder and floated Top Shelf just off the beach with a stern anchor, enjoying the 4 or so hours around high tide. Back into Macona for a peaceful night.

A sea eagle and her nest on the starboard beacon coming in to Macona. We could see at least 2 chicks.

A sea eagle and her nest on the starboard beacon coming in to Macona. We could see at least 2 chicks.

Monday:

We’ve given up waiting for the right winds for Border Is and the northern snorkelling sites. Today we planned to pick up a mooring at Bauer Bay on South Molle Island and do all the walks there.

It started so well sailing out of Macona with a reefed main to handle the forecast gusty northerlies, turning to strong south-easterlies. The winds weren’t initially too strong, but the swell from the north-east was annoying. The tide across the passage was very strong – we were pointing 30 – 40 degrees off course and being carried directly to our destination.

South Molle Island - our destination. Look at those choppy seas!

South Molle Island – our destination. Look at those choppy seas!

Bauer Bay is a good anchorage only when winds are from the south-east. It was obvious just before we got there that the south-easterly change hadn’t yet arrived and the swell would make the anchorage just plain miserable. We decided to go on to Shute Harbour instead, but stopped for lunch and a swim at Cockatoo Beach on North Molle Island – rudder and keel up to float over the fringing coral to shore. Delightful stopover.

The trip from there across the Molle Passage to Shute Harbour was horrible with a swell that was easily 1 – 1.5 meters rolling us around. Once anchored in this very protected harbour, along with the other 50 or so boats, we took the tender ashore to see what there was to see – which was nothing. All the shops have closed since Port of Airlie became the main tourist hub. Another ‘failed’ tourist area.

While there are a lot of boats moored, many of them don’t appear cared for, far less taken out occasionally, there’s a few ‘live-aboards’ getting cheap accommodation and one of the bare-boat charterers is based here. It’s a sad place Shute Harbour.

Shute Harbour is a huge anchorage. It's shallow - we were anchored in 2.5m at low tide - and very well protected from swell and winds from all directions.

Shute Harbour is a huge anchorage. It’s shallow – we were anchored in 2.5m at low tide – and very well protected from swell and winds from all directions – just as well by the look of those clouds!

Tuesday

The new forecast is out and it’s depressing – south-easterlies at 15 to 30kn for the next 5 days. We don’t sail in winds that strong. So last night we made the decision to finish our trip. It does mean that we’ve left some things we wanted to do undone, which sounds like a great excuse to come back again another year.

We left Shute at about 6am to catch the ebbing tide north and before the winds get up too much, motoring all the way to Airlie Beach. There was plenty of wind, but it was dead on the nose. At Abell Point Marina we had to hang off the public pontoon for a couple of hours until the office opened. We both felt a bit down today – we’re tired and the trip ended a bit abruptly. No cleaning or packing today – today is just for recuperating and reflecting on all the fantastic times we’ve had.

Steve collected the car and trailer from Norbert who has kindly kept them in his backyard.

Wednesday

With the thought of our lovely home awaiting us it was with renewed enthusiasm that we cleaned and packed up the boat and I prepared meals for the trip home. To give the car batteries a good charge we went for a drive to Laguna Quays. This is a mainland ‘failed’ resort, about 20 minutes drive from here.  It was opened in 1992 and covers many acres fronting onto Repulse Bay with a world class golf course, a marina, condominiums and the resort itself. It closed in 2012 and is now owned by a Chinese developer who has not done anything with it since it’s purchase several years ago. The buildings, golf course and marina are in disrepair.

Back to the boat and we de-rigged on the water; so much easier and less fraught than doing it on the trailer as we usually do.

We de-rigged on the water this time. So much easier than doing it on the trailer.

No more sailing. Top Shelf is nearly ready for the long drive home.

For our final night we took a walk into Airlie and had dinner at the sailing club. An appropriate place to finish a wonderful 10-week sailing adventure. We’ll retrieve her first thing in the morning and begin our journey home, arriving on Saturday.

Airlie Beach from the walkway at Abell Point.

Airlie Beach from the walkway at Abell Point.

To see more photos from this part of our trip CLICK HERE

 

11 -12 Nov: Hamilton Island

We’ve found that we happily last a week out and about, but after that we’re hanging out for a long, hot shower and a bit of luxury. Today we’re back at Hamilton Island.

At Hamilton .. bakery, pub, shower - where will we go first?

At Hamilton .. bakery, pub, shower – where will we go first?

For something different this stay we’ve booked to have lunch and a tour of the Hamilton Island Golf Club. It’s situated on Dent Island and is an 18-hole, par 71 course with every hole having spectacular views. The lunch at the Clubhouse first was superb, too.

Stunning course. I wish I could play golf!

Stunning course. I wish I could play golf!

The washing has been done, the boat cleaned inside and out (but not underneath), water and fuel replenished, the sailors rejuvenated and tomorrow before we sail we’ll restock the larder.

Another good stay on Hamilton Island, though we really did miss Baby John – so many extended family groups holidaying here bringing back the memories.

To see the photos from these couple of days CLICK HERE.

 

4 – 10 Nov: Long Is, Macona, Hill Inlet, Whitehaven

Wednesday 4th November

With our newly repaired tender in tow and all provisioned up we headed for Palm Bay on Long Island. It was one of the best sails we’ve had having a good 10kn wind behind us and the tide with us we flew along at upwards of 5kn at times. Ray was on the tiller; we sat back and enjoyed the islands as they floated by.

Running with the wind on our way to Long Island. Magic sailing.

Running with the wind on our way to Long Island. Magic sailing.

The entrance to Palm Bay is via a narrow, dredged channel to a small ‘lagoon’ within the rocks and coral. Here there are 4 mooring buoys. It took us a while and a phone call to reception to finally see the small red and green buoys that delineate the channel. We picked up a mooring buoy then went ashore and brought back one of the stern lines they provide. This will prevent us from swinging as the tide and wind change, hitting the reef, and also keeps us bow to the swell, ensuring a calm night.

Steve rowing ashore. Note the stern line from Top Shelf to the shore.

Steve rowing ashore. Note the stern line from Top Shelf to the shore.

Times are changing on the islands. Our guide book said a mooring fee ($50/night) would cover the resort facilities including pool, showers, etc. Not so anymore – that’s an extra $25 each … bit much to pay for a swim and shower. Palm Bay resort is a pretty resort with small individual burés set in lush tropical gardens facing the beach. It’s all self-catering, with a nicely appointed kitchen and large open dining room for the guests to use.

Palm Bay bures.

Palm Bay bures.

Thursday

Today was a day of walking! We planned to walk the southern walks from Palm Bay first, then to Happy Bay, the resort just north of Palm Bay where we’d rest a while at the beachside cocktail bar we remembered from our last visit here, before continuing with the northern walks. It started so well as we walked along well-shaded tracks covered with a rich carpet of leaves to Sandy Bay, Fish Bay, Pandanus Bay and finally to the Happy Bay resort. This is where it all went wrong – it’s closed! Another ‘ghost resort’. We walked on, unsatiated, completing the island circuit, all up 15.5km. While there were no great peaks to assault with astounding views as we’ve experienced before, it was nevertheless an enjoyable walk around the island.

The islands are interlaced with these wonderful walks, and rarely do we ever meet anyone else out there doing it. They don't know what they're missing.

The islands are interlaced with these wonderful walks, and rarely do we ever meet anyone else out there doing it. They don’t know what they’re missing.

For more photos of our stay on Long Island CLICK HERE

Friday

Suitable anchorages for the persistent northerly winds are limited. We decided to cross the channel again and take our chances at some of the places we still want to see despite the winds. Today’s sail was quite long, but again very enjoyable for most of it. To quote the Skipper, ‘it got a little frisky there for a while’. We were close hauled all the way from Long Island up to Macona Inlet on Hook Island where we’ve anchored.

Saturday

Decided to stay today and explore Macona Inlet in the tender. I must say I think this is one of the best anchorages in the Whitsundays. It has several lovely sandy beaches to explore and swim from, is well protected from all winds except a direct southerly, and the surrounding hillside is beautiful, covered in trees of so many different colours. And it’s not generally as popular as the other protected anchorages.

The guide book said you could catch fish here without requiring much skill. We duly baited our hooks and tossed the lines out, then sat reading – undisturbed. Obviously a greater skill required then we possess.

We were hit by storms tonight – lots of rain and lightning and wind. The anchor held without giving an inch and we had no problems. It soon passed and we slept well.

Sunday

Off to Hill Inlet today on the eastern side of Whitsunday Island. But first we had to pass through Hook Passage. I remember many years ago visiting the Hook Island Underwater Observatory which was here in Hook Passage – but it’s now closed; apparently competition from the high speed catamarans which take tourists out to the reef for the real deal was too great. Pity, I really enjoyed it.

Another once thriving tourist attraction now closed: Hook Island Underway Observatory.

Another once thriving tourist attraction now closed: Hook Island Underway Observatory.

Hook Passage is another of the Whitsunday passages where you have to get wind and tide just so and our planning was good. The tidal flow tore us along at over 5 knots with not much wind to speak of. However the timing also coincided with the tourist boats passing through which added some drama, particularly coping with their wake.

Rapidly closing on us, in Hook Passage.

Rapidly closing on us, in Hook Passage.

To view a few photos of our trip to Hill Inlet CLICK HERE.

Due to lack of wind and a contrary tide as we headed south we motored all the way to Hill Inlet arriving about 2 and a half hours after full tide. This stunning inlet which is the northern boundary of Whitehaven Beach is very shallow – too shallow for keel yachts, but perfect for trailer sailers and catamarans. Sensibly you’d enter this narrow Inlet on the full tide, or at least a rising tide in case of running aground, but we didn’t have those options so in we went anyway. We wound up the keel and pulled the rudder up half way and I took up position standing at the bow trying to spot the deepest channel, waving the directions frantically to Steve. By good luck we didn’t run aground and anchored in a couple of meters of water on the southern side.

This is Hill Inlet. Not my photo - taken from a greater height than I could manage. Here you can see the size of the Inlet and the shifting sands we had to negotiate. Not complaining - top anchorage.

This is Hill Inlet. Not my photo – taken from a greater height than I could manage. Here you can see the size of the Inlet and the shifting sands we had to negotiate. Not complaining – top anchorage.

This was a fairly long trip today – about 15nm of motoring which isn’t relaxing.

Late afternoon we went for a walk along Whitehaven beach. Whitehaven is 7km of pure white sand and is officially rated as one of the top 5 beaches in the World. The sand is 98% silica and very fine and soft. This amazing beach is a bit of an enigma as locally there are no quartz rocks from which it could have been formed. Naturally it’s a major tourist attraction of the area drawing several hundred visitors a day, mostly to the southern section. Being part of a National Park it is entirely unspoilt by development, looking the same today as it did to the Ngaro aboriginal communities over the centuries. And credit to all concerned it recently was awarded the ‘Cleanest Beach in Australia’, well-deserved too from our observations.

By late afternoon the day trippers are all gone and the yachties today are elsewhere, Whitehaven being a poor anchorage in northerly conditions. We could hardly believe our good fortune – arguably the best beach in the entire world and Steve and I had it entirely to ourselves to walk. Surreal.

Aerial photo of Whitehaven looking north towards Hill Inlet. This is the stretch Steve and I walked. Again, not my photo.

Aerial photo of Whitehaven looking north towards Hill Inlet. This is the stretch Steve and I walked. Again, not my photo.

Monday

South easterlies are forecast to arrive today. Rather than stay in Hill Inlet where we only have one opportunity a day to leave and therefore risk having to leave at a time when winds don’t suit us, we decided to move on today. But first a little sightseeing and some housework.

On the headland between Hill Inlet and Tongue Bay, the next bay north, National Parks has built a walking path to a lookout with magnificent views over the Inlet and Whitehaven. We took to the tender before breakfast to beat the crowds, enjoyed the views and photo opportunities then got caught in quite a long, heavy downpour. We were drenched!

Selfie from lookout overlooking Hill Inlet and Whitehaven Beach.

Selfie from lookout overlooking Hill Inlet and Whitehaven Beach.

Back at Top Shelf and now pushed for time we motored into shallower water and hopped overboard with snorkels and masks and our hull-cleaning equipment to give her another clean. Growth on the hull happens so quickly in these tropical waters. Hill Inlet has the same beautiful white silica sand as Whitehaven. The water is crystal clear over this lovely soft sand – it was quite visually striking and made hull-cleaning a pleasant pastime.

By the time we’d finished it was once more a couple of hours after high tide and we had to leave – still no breakfast. I repeated my demented arm-waving act standing on the bow and led us safely out to choppy waters. Fortunately not far to go – just to the southern end of Whitehaven – with southerly winds expected it’s now a good anchorage.

We managed to slip ourselves into the perfect location with the best protection on this magnificent beach and ate our breakfast at midday. Then we sat back and watched the comings and goings! Boats of every size everywhere, seaplanes flying in and out and even 5 identical helicopters arrived together and landed in formation on the beach.

Panorama of a few of the tourists at Whitehaven. Bit wonky as Top Shelf wouldn't stay still for me. If you have very good eyesight you may be able to see 5 red helicopters on the beach.

Panorama of a few of the tourists at Whitehaven. Bit wonky as Top Shelf wouldn’t stay still for me. If you have very good eyesight you may be able to see 5 red helicopters on the beach.

By 4.30pm they’d all gone leaving us and 3 other yachts in peace for the night. We put out a stern anchor to the beach to prevent any rolling from the swell, cooked a delicious meal then sat in the cockpit for hours listening to beautiful music, staring at the sky, counting the shooting stars and sipping a chilled semillon. I hope this evening will remain in my memory for many years to come.

To see our photos from Hill Inlet and Whitehaven CLICK HERE.

Tuesday

I loved it so much here at Whitehaven that I momentarily considered suggesting to Steve that we stay here another night – then I remembered the tourists!! No, they didn’t fit into my idea of tranquility, and sure enough by 8.15am there were already 3 seaplanes landed, disgorging tourists onto my beach. Time to leave.

Our morning constitutional on Whitehaven Beach, before the tourists arrive.

Our morning constitutional on Whitehaven Beach, before the tourists arrive.

This time it’s Solway Pass, between Whitsunday and Hazelwood islands, to be traversed, but we’re getting pretty good at these narrow passes now. Even so with all conditions on our side, and motoring, the swirling waters swept us off course a few times. Once through up went the sails for a gentle, pleasant sail northwards through Fitzalan Pass to Henning Island where we picked up a buoy. Just short of Henning we had a near-catastrophe. We were running with the wind, which means the mainsail was nearly at right angles to the boat  Steve, on the tiller, looked down to start the motor in preparation for mooring when the wind suddenly flipped the sail right across the boat to the other side where I was in the process of sitting back up after leaning over the side to rinse a bucket. It hit the top of my head – if I’d been any higher up we both shudder to think of the consequences. Accidents happen in split seconds.

That set the tone for the next few hours. The wind got up and made the Henning Island mooring uncomfortable, not that my headache and I had any interest in exploring. We dropped the mooring buoy and headed to Beach 25 (yep, that’s its name)  just across the passage and a bit closer to Hamilton Island where we want to go tomorrow for reprovisioning. It was a hasty move as we were both still stressed from the ‘incident’ and it wasn’t until we were half way there that I took a good look at the chart – dangerous reef and very shallow water all around it. Sh*t! We carefully navigated in, anchored, then decided it was too swelly and potentially shallow here too, so moved again to Gulnare Inlet. Took the short-cut through a very narrow channel of ‘a bit deeper’ water between rocks and reefs before negotiating our way into this beautifully protected and calm, but very shallow at dead low tide (which it now was) inlet.

Once safely anchored the remaining alcoholhic beverages on board disappeared rapidly, but we did enjoy a beautiful evening.

26 Oct-3 Nov: Cid, Waite, Chance, Cid

Monday 26th October: Airlie to Cid Harbour

Borrowed the marina courtesy car again to take the tender to repairers this morning. We’ll pick it up on our return in a week or so. In the meantime we can use the kayak to get to shore.

Left Abell Point marina at 1030 our destination Cid Harbour via North Molle Island. A very light easterly wind saw us motoring until we passed the Molle group, then motor sailing most of the way to Cid to counter the very strong north flooding tide. Bad planning – we shouldn’t have left until the tide was turning!

Enjoyed a lovely couple of hours this evening sitting in the cockpit listening to Dean Martin’s beautiful voice floating over the water from a neighbouring yacht.

Some of the islands are exactly the same today as when Captain Cook first saw them, and this could be him now.

Thanks to our wonderful National Parks some of the islands are exactly the same today as when Captain Cook first saw them, and this could be him now.

Tuesday

Cid Harbour to Waite Bay, Hazelwood Island

Phew! Today was a big day.

The several narrow passages between islands around the Whitsundays are notorious for striking fear into the mariner who would dare to traverse them with a contrary tide and wind. Fitzalan Pass on the northern side of Hamilton is one such passage.  We left our anchorage at 7am anticipating a two hour sail to reach the pass at slack tide.
If we’ve learnt nothing else sailing it’s that plans rarely work out as anticipated. No wind this morning but we caught the tidal stream of the flooding tide. With the outboard barely above idle we flew down Hunt Passage and around the corner towards the pass at up to 7kn at times, arriving an hour earlier than planned. Fortunately the pass was mellow as what little wind there was was going with the tide.

Fitzalan Pass. One of the many narrow passages that has a bad reputation. Luckily it was well-behaved today.

Fitzalan Pass. One of the many narrow passages that has a bad reputation. Low rocky outcrops extend for quite a distance from the little island. That’s Hamilton on the right.

We variously motored, sailed and motor-sailed on to Hazelwood Island where we initially anchored for lunch near Lupton Island. This anchorage is deep and surrounded by coral. The trip into the beach without a tender would be a long way and I didn’t want to swim from the boat in such deep water. We upanchored, very unhappily bringing up a piece of staghorn coral the anchor had broken off and moved across Waite Bay to anchor on Hazelwood Island  in a couple of metres of crystal clear water over lovely white sand. Happy now.

Hmmm – ideal opportunity to clean the hull! As the tide dropped we were able to walk around Top Shelf scrubbing off the baby barnacles, slimy growth and even feathery pretty growth. Steve swam under the boat scrubbing the very underneath. It was hard work here for a couple of hours.  We were shocked at how much growth was on her. We won’t leave her that long again. We should fair fly through the water now with all that growth gone.

It’s a full moon tonight. We’re the only ones in Waite Bay – I’m sure this is heaven.

Once more we get to see a full moon rising on this trip - our 3rd so far. This time it's over Lupton Island and we're anchored in Waite Bay on Hazelwood Island. No one else here; an idyllic tropical experience.

Once more we get to see a full moon rising on this trip – our 3rd so far. This time it’s over Lupton Island and we’re anchored in Waite Bay on Hazelwood Island. No one else here; an idyllic tropical experience.

 

Wednesday – Thursday

We had a lovely gentle sail over to Chance Bay on the southern side of Whitsunday Island. After the last few days of predominantly motoring it was good to be able to enjoy the peace of sailing.

Chance Bay is a pretty bay with two lovely white sandy beaches bordered with low growing trees, pandanus palms and crinum lilies which are flowering now. The fringing reef made anchoring challenging until another yacht in the perfect spot left – we quickly took their place.

Steve pumped up the kayak, we paddled ashore and walked another leg of the Ngaro Sea Trail. This 8.5km return walk took us up over the hill, through eucalypts, acacias, large bloodwood trees and grass trees to Whitehaven Beach.

From the lookout on our walk. At the bottom of the cliff is Whitehaven Beach. In the distance is Chalkies Beach on Hazelwood Island.

From the lookout on our walk. At the bottom of the cliff is Whitehaven Beach. In the distance is Chalkies Beach on Hazelwood Island.

We enjoyed a well-deserved swim and chill on the beach watching the comings and goings of the day-tripper yachts, giant catamarans, super-powered rubber ducks, sea planes and huge private motor launches before making our way back to our quiet beach.

These guys give a whole new perspective to Street Food. On Whitehaven Beach.

These guys give a whole new perspective to Street Food. On Whitehaven Beach.

Back at Chance Bay we snorkelled for a while, but other than rocks covered with giant oysters and a few schools of fish, we didn’t see much. It’s supposed to be good snorkelling on the other side of our bay – next time.

Friday

Another perfect day of sailing today. Easterlies at 5 -15kn took us firstly over to Torres Herald Beach in Turtle Bay. We snuck in over the rocks to shore, not quite drying out, lunched and relaxed for a couple of hours. I got a meal prepared for tonight and put it into the DreamPot to cook. This beach is only small but could be the poster beach for any idyllic tropical beach you care to dream about.

Torres Herald Beach in Turtle Bay. This was a delightful luncheon spot for us. We arrived on a rising tide and were able to take Top Shelf right in to shore.

Torres Herald Beach in Turtle Bay. This was a delightful luncheon spot for us. We arrived on a rising tide and were able to take Top Shelf right in to shore.

With strong winds forecast for the weekend we sailed on back to Cid Harbour – again a great sail just sitting back watching the deep turquoise waters of the islands as they disappeared behind us.
We anchored close in to shore just to the south of Sawmill Beach and enjoyed our perfectly cooked silverside and vegies.

Saturday: Cid Harbour

Rained on and off all day today, accompanied by strong gusty wind. We watched movies and read our books.

Sunday: Cid Harbour

Today we climbed Whitsunday Peak. This is one of the highest peaks in the Whitsundays at 450-ish meters and quite challenging. Commencing at Sawmill Beach we followed the dry creek bed initially. It would be spectacular to be here to see it flowing – particularly the waterfalls over some of the huge boulders. The island is heavily wooded with hoop pines and eucalypts which kept us shaded and cool. Leaving the creek the ascent is steep with many zigzags and countless stone steps. A few pauses were needed along the way.

The views from the top were spectacular! We spent about an hour at the top just absorbing the beauty of this magical part of the world. How lucky are we!! It was fun to see places we’d anchored and plan where we’d go next. From up there it looked reasonably close belying the hours of sailing it takes to reach each destination.

The view north from Whitsunday Peak. Cid Island on the left, Cid Harbour the protected area between the island and the headland jutting out from the right.

The view north from Whitsunday Peak. Cid Island on the left, Cid Harbour the protected area between the island and the headland jutting out from the right.

Once back at sea level we washed the sweat off with a swim – don’t know the logic behind that, but it felt good, and paddled the kayak back to Top Shelf.

Monday: Cid Harbour

Today was kayaking day. The inlet looked so enticing from our sky-high view yesterday that we decided to explore it in the kayak. It was a good paddle following the coastline around. In the photograph you’ll see a tiny island in the middle. It has a lovely sandy beach, rocky headland covered in oysters, all sorts of plants, including orchids, and as it doesn’t appear to be named we’ve claimed it for ourselves. Back to the boat another swim and relax after an enjoyable couple of hours paddling.

Dugong Inlet from Whitsunday Peak. Sawmill Beach to the bottom left.

Dugong Inlet from Whitsunday Peak. Sawmill Beach to the bottom left. Top Shelf is anchored just out of the picture on the left.

Tuesday: Cid Harbour to Airlie Beach

Back to Airlie today to reprovision and pick up our tender. This time we planned the trip to perfection and had a lovely sail, despite the winds being south-westerly when the forecast was for north-easterlies. We’re nothing if not adaptable.

Got a big fright coming into the marina. Our allocated berth was amongst the catamarans. As we were about to  turn the corner into the narrow finger to our spot a catamaran was coming out taking up the whole ‘road’. Steve handled it very well with a little forward and backwards, but needed a good stiff drink once we’d tied up.

Another rather impressive boat in the marina at the moment is Hemisphere, the largest sailing catamaran in the world. It’s doing charters up here for the rich and famous. At $360,000 a week we’re trying to get a group together for a trip – we’ll need around 3,600 friends I think – pity it only sleeps 10.

This is the largest catamaran in the world. To get a perspective of how big it is Denise is standing on the pontoon beside it.

This is the largest catamaran in the world. To get a perspective of how big it is Denise is standing on the pontoon beside it.

 

Hemisphere leaves Airlie. For an indication of size, see the catamaran behind her - that's an average-sized cruising catamaran.

Hemisphere leaves Airlie. For an indication of size, see the catamaran behind her – that’s an average-sized cruising catamaran.

For more photos from this week in our travels. CLICK HERE

24-25 Oct: Airlie Beach

Well today had such great potential: a lovely sail in fair winds across the passage to Airlie arriving mid-morning when we would let the boat dry out on the beach so we could scrub her underside clean, righting herself on the incoming tide late afternoon ready for us to motor out a little way and anchor happily for the evening. What could possibly go wrong?

  1. No wind. We had to motor all the way over.
  2. The beach is called ‘Muddy beach’ for a reason. There are rocks in that mud! And sharp things to damage the hull and hurt our feet as we walked around scrubbing her.
  3. The beach is beside the VERY popular Airlie Beach Markets, and it’s Saturday morning. We had an audience watching us squelching around in mud.
  4. All day staying in our stinky, sweaty, muddy clothes waiting for a cold wash onboard this evening is not appealing.
  5. Can’t leave the boat unattended to go and get something to eat.

We abandoned the plan after about an hour and just in the nick of time before the whole bay dried out. We had lunch onboard then booked into the marina (Abell Point Marina) and beat a hasty path to the showers!
While the day had improved it didn’t get a lot better. A walk into Airlie was needed to settle our frazzled nerves, and both being tired we stopped at the first place for dinner – the pub! We ate the worst steak and the worst chips we’ve ever had.

Back to the boat for a very early night.

No photos from today – they wouldn’t have been pretty!

Sunday:

We reprovisioned today. The marina has a free car you can book for 90 minutes. We’re now full up with food, booze, water and fuel, ready to leave tomorrow.

Had dinner tonight at the Barcelona Restaurant with Norbert and Marlene who are the locals who are kindly looking after our car and trailer while we sail. It’s a Spanish restaurant, obviously. We enjoyed some tapas and a paella.

I like Airlie. The walk around the foreshore from Shingelly Beach (the marina site) to Airlie is very pleasant, and there’s lots to see and do at Airlie.