Days 7&8: Ulmarra to Grafton to Home

Our last day on the river dawned a little cloudy and a little windy – but nothing I could complain about. Grafton is just around the bend and won’t take us long to get there. A bit of wind again, but once more coming from the wrong direction.

The Clarence River has flooded 74 times in the last 150 years. This was problematic for the agricultural interests around the river as it would take weeks, sometimes months, for the waters to recede. A series of drains and floodgate structures have been constructed which now allows the water to drain off within a couple of days. Levee banks have also been constructed around the urban areas. These are all visible from the river as you travel along.

Flood mitigation.

Flood mitigation.

There’s no pontoon at Grafton! Quite surprising considering the fabulous pontoons we’ve been on all the way until now. We tied up to the jetty at Corcoran Park – ropes around poles and figuring how much to leave to allow for changes of tide. Have I been spoilt?

The jetty at Corcoran Park, Grafton. Quite disappointing after the excellent pontoons we've had everywhere else on the river.

The jetty at Corcoran Park, Grafton. Quite disappointing after the excellent pontoons we’ve had everywhere else on the river.

Anyway here we met up with our friends Derrick and Gwen who have been travelling Australia for the last three years in their motorhome towing their Farr trailer sailer. We first met them at Hervey Bay. After a morning tea catch-up we returned to Top Shelf for lunch and general fluffing around before walking to the caravan park where Derrick and Gwen are staying. They sailed the Clarence a month or so ago, taking 3 weeks to do it – much better idea than our quick trip. Before we left the boat a lovely gentleman  and his little dog Minnie dropped by to say hello – a keen sailor for many years. Lives near Brushgrove and we chatted for quite a while about boats, as one does.

It's ALL MINE! at the Village Green Tavern, Grafton.

It’s ALL MINE! at the Village Green Tavern, Grafton.

Off to dinner with Derrick and Gwen at the Grafton Village Green tavern. Between us we bought enough raffle tickets in their meat trays to support the local sporting clubs for the rest of the year (no wins), had the most enormous meals you’ve ever seen and generally had a good time.

Day 8: Grafton to home

Steve was up early to catch the 7.30am bus back to Yamba to collect the car and trailer. I stayed with the boat – chatted with the (?) Commodore of the Clarence River Yacht Club who came over to welcome us. He tells me we could use their showers, toilets and park the vehicle and trailer there if we wanted – must remember that for next time. The Clarence Classic, a combination of racing and social sailing to Yamba and return, is on in the next few weeks. We can’t make it unfortunately, but I’m sure it would be fun.
Also watched the crew training in their dragon boat. And I believe they often exercise the horses in the river from this ramp too, though I didn’t see them this morning.

The Dragon boat crew out for early morning practice.

The Dragon boat crew out for early morning practice.

Steve got back around 10.30 – unfortunately the trailer was missing a rear wobbler. The local chandlery came to the rescue. We retrieved the boat, packed her up and were on the road by 1.30pm and home by 7.30pm. I write that so glibly, but as anyone who has a trailer sailer knows there’s a fair bit of work involved in the retrieval.

Nearly finished packing her up - just the mast to go.

Nearly finished packing her up – just the mast to go.

On reflection it was an excellent trip. If we were to do it again I’d take more notice of the tides and the wind direction – we left in the mornings most of the time which coincided with the river flow being against us, and the winds were only useful to us once. I’d also take at least 2 weeks so we can have a few days off at some of these delightful villages. And I’d choose a time that wasn’t soon after heavy rains upstream – would be nice to see the river clean.

The track we took, as recorded by the software iSailor. 39nm in 6 legs.

The track we took, as recorded by the software iSailor. 39nm in 6 legs.

Day 6: Brushgrove to Ulmarra

Today we went to Ulmarra. As we poked our bow out of the little tributary we were in we faced 7 – 10kn winds on the nose. That was a surprise as we’d spent a perfectly still night onboard. Not fancying tacking despite at last having wind we motored on. The river banks continued their lovely green interest for us, with sugar cane fields, lovely fat cattle and homes varying from old farm houses to very flash homes.

Riverside homes.

Riverside homes.

There was a dredge working the river – quite near to another cross-river ferry. These ferries look like fun – I’d like to return in a vehicle to get the experience from all angles.

The Ulmarra pontoon (another excellent facility) would hold maybe 3 vessels. The wind was still being a problem and the water was quite choppy. We took great care securing Top Shelf in view of this. Once more we were the only ones on the pontoon, though anchored off Ulmarra were 5 yachts. A couple of the sailors from these yachts stopped to chat to us on their way to or from Ulmarra. One told us that last night was really rough on the river with winds up to 25kn – what a surprise when we didn’t experience more than a ripple on the pontoon at Brushgrove. Such interesting stories everyone has, and so friendly. Made me start to hanker for a life on a keel yacht sailing the coastlines and oceans … but no, not for me. Love my little trailer sailer, and have a campervan too – so the best of both worlds.

Looking upriver from the public boat ramp in Ulmarra.

Looking upriver from the public boat ramp in Ulmarra.

The morning was spent reading and catching up on emails, etc sitting in the cafe that adjoins the Ulmarra pub – just at the top of the jetty, as usual. Sometime around midday the breeze dropped completely and the river once more assumed the glassy surface we’ve come to expect.

The Ulmarra Hotel also has a very good cafe with lovely lawn area to sit facing the river. The pontoon is just a very short walk down the riverbank between those two trees.

The Ulmarra Hotel also has a very good cafe with lovely lawn area to sit on the river side. The pontoon is just a very short walk down the riverbank between those two trees.

I took a walk around the village – the whole town of Ulmarra has been classified by the National Trust and it’s definitely worth a few days exploring and enjoying this piece of well-preserved history. I found several arts and crafts shops, which were unfortunately closed at 4pm on my rounds, several ‘bed and breakfasts’ and renovated apartments, and a well-tended park with BBQ facilities and play equipment for the children. The hotel has quite remarkably intricate wrought iron lacework – pity it didn’t show up better in my photograph. The public boat ramp – hmmm, definitely not designed for trailer sailers to launch – has a power line going right across the ramp descent to the river. I didn’t see a grocery store – the petrol station looks like it might carry some commodities.

Another BBQ onboard for dinner, a pleasant night sitting out in the cockpit (granted we were wrapped up) and the anticipation of a quiet, restful night. We definitely have to plan longer trips. I’m finally beginning to relax into the lifestyle and our trip is over tomorrow.
If you’d like to see more photos from this leg of the trip click HERE.

Another magic sunset.

Another magic sunset.

Day 5: Maclean to Brushgrove

Despite the concerns expressed by our previous pontoon neighbours there was not a sound from the park beside us last night. We slept well, though woke to find logs and branches caught up around us – all coming down from the flooding experienced last week. We’ve got a longer day today and wanted to maximise use of the tide so left Maclean as soon as we were dressed.

There are 100 charted islands on the Clarence River. Harwood is on Harwood Island and today we are heading for Brushgrove which is on Woodford Island. Woodford Is is the largest inland island in the world, it even has its own mountain range – good to remember for your next trivia night.

There’s no wind, perfectly blue skies and the river is glassy. So idyllic, if not that great for sailing! After about an hour we decided to stop the engine and drift while we ate our breakfast and had a coffee. I can tell you it was very nice.

These gantries were used to load the cut cane onto river barges once upon a time. The birds have now taken them over- see the sea eagles nest on top.

These gantries were used to load the cut cane onto river barges once upon a time. The birds have now taken them over- see the sea eagles nest on top.

Not far up the river we passed the little township of Lawrence. There’s a jetty there that you could tie up to I assume, but we didn’t stop. There was a very unusual round house though that took my fancy.

Unusual house at Lawrence. Looks like it has the machinery underneath it to turn it as they wish.

Unusual house at Lawrence. Looks like it has the machinery underneath it to turn it as they wish.

We motored on (no wind) to Brushgrove. The pontoon is just off the main Clarence, on the South Arm. On one side is Cowper, which is where the pontoon is, and Brushgrove is on the other side – a bridge joins them (too low for us with our mast up). We tied up at the pontoon, had our lunch and went for a walk around Cowper. It’s a quiet little place – no shops, just a couple of churches and the school. One of the churches has been taken over by a very talented craftsman. We wandered in to have a look – couldn’t find anyone there – the dining chairs on display are exactly what I want! If you’re around here make sure you drop in for a look. On our walk we found the Cowper Bus Crash memorial. On 20th October 1989 about 4am a semitrailer crossed to the wrong side of the road and hit a long-distance bus, killing 20 people on the bus and the semi driver.  It was found that the semi driver had 80 times the normal levels of ephedrine in his blood stream (an upper, commonly used by long haul drivers back then). As a result of the investigation into this crash these drugs were banned, rest periods mandated and a divided highway between Sydney and Brisbane was begun.

5n_church

We crossed the bridge and enquired at the hotel if we could have a shower here – yes, $5 for both of us. So just before dinner we returned and enjoyed a lovely hot shower. Until now we’d been having cockpit showers, which are good, but just not the same. Dinner at the pub was very good – I had garlic prawns, Steve the chicken parma.

At the beginning of the 19th century Brushgrove was a thriving town due to its location on the Clarence when the river was the chief form of transport  Red cedar, sugar and other agricultural goods were transported to southern ports and even New Zealand  in the late 50s the bridge was built, truck transport increased and Brushgrove declined. Today sugar and beef cattle are the major industries – and I guess, tourism. The Brushgrove Hotel, built as a single story in 1868 was raised and renovated in the early 20th century.

The Cowper-Brushgrove bridge from the lawns of the Brushgrove hotel, with Top Shelf on the pontoon on the far side.

The Cowper-Brushgrove bridge from the lawns of the Brushgrove hotel, with Top Shelf on the pontoon on the far side.

Back home to bed and a very peaceful night.

Top Shelf all prepared for a very peaceful night.

Top Shelf all prepared for a very peaceful night.

For more photos from our trip today click HERE.

Day 4: Harwood to Maclean

Despite our proximity to the bridge, and the noise the semi’s make as they cross it, we slept very well – maybe the traffic decreased after about 10pm.

Today is a short trip, just around the bend really. Maclean is known as the ‘Scottish Town in Australia’ due to the large number of Scottish immigrants that settled  in the area. It’s taken its theme to heart and with tartans and bag pipe music around every corner. Many street signs carry the Gaelic translations and 200 of the power poles have been decorated with the tartan of specific clans. The old buildings are well-preserved and the town has plenty of cafes, restaurants and bars to while away the hours.

One of 200 tartan painted poles in Maclean.

One of 200 tartan painted poles in Maclean.

Maclean, the Scottish town, streetscape.

Maclean, the Scottish town, streetscape.

There’s also a self-guided walking tour which we’d thought we might do, but indolence overcame us and after our lunch we remained aboard. Though Steve did pop up to the fishmongers for prawns (and oysters) for our wine o’clock.

A cabin cruiser pulled up on the pontoon just before we arrived. They’d motored down from Surfers Paradise yesterday, then Yamba to here today. Nope, I don’t envy them – they missed so much along the way that we saw. Anyway after talking to one of the locals who said the park beside the pontoon can become ‘noisy’ at night they moved on to Brushgrove. Oh well, we’re staying. The pontoon is excellent, like all we’ve been on so far. It’s only 50m to the Spar for groceries and even closer to the nearest cafe. There’s free power and water on the pontoon should you need it.

A lovely man from the Cruising Yacht Club came down to welcome us and asked us to sign the Visitors’ Book and gave us some local publications. Had a chat with him. People are so friendly.

Sundowners on the Clarence at Maclean. Local prawns - from the many trawlers we've seen on the river.

Sundowners on the Clarence at Maclean. Local prawns – from the many trawlers we’ve seen on the river.

The pontoon at Maclean. This one has free power and water too.

Top Shelf on the pontoon at Maclean. This one has free power and water too.

For more photos from this leg of our trip click HERE.

Days 9, 10, 11: Ka Ka Mundi to home

29th April

The weather forecast is for heavy rain beginning this afternoon and lasting a couple of days. Salvatore Rosa is impassable in wet weather so we decided to head towards home instead.
We spent most of today lazing around and catching up on minor things – clothes washing, hair washing, cleaning the stove … not too exciting. Took another walk to the springs – the water is so sweet and pure!
Then off to Springsure to catch up on emails and Facebook before settling back into the free camp at Staircase Range for the night.
Surprise – there was another van there – the first time we’ve shared a campsite (other than with Bryan and Trish) since the first night.

Distance travelled: 156K

30th April:
It started raining last night and has pretty well rained all day. We left our campsite early and had breakfast at Rolleston, then onward and eastward to Moura before camping at the Monto Information Centre for the night, another free camp provided by the Council. Explored Monto for a while, particularly the cafe and the pub – well they do say when the Council is generous enough to provide a free camp that you should frequent the local businesses! The camp is behind the un-manned Information Centre on vacant land. The public toilets (clean) are close by, and it’s a short walk into town. While not salubrious or picturesque it was quiet (after the pub closed at 10pm) and convenient.

Distance travelled: 360K

A prickly pear covered in fruit. Lots of these along the roadside.

A prickly pear covered in fruit. Lots of these along the roadside.

1st May:

The rain last night was still pretty gentle, but the forecast is pretty bad for today with it getting very heavy after lunch as a low comes down the coast. We left early wanting to get home before the worst hit.
As it turned out it the majority of the 5-hour drive was in the rain with it sometimes being quite heavy, but no water over the road. We stopped briefly at Gayndah for more oranges and a cuppa before arriving home at 1pm.

Gladstone, centre of our citrus industry and, of course, the Big Orange.

Gayndah, centre of our citrus industry and, of course, the Big Orange.

Distance travelled: 400K

All together a fabulous trip, with good friends, good drives, good food, good bushwalking, great countryside and an excellent campervan.

Total distance for trip: 2086.9K

Day 8: Staircase Range to Ka Ka Mundi

After brekkie We headed for Springsure, just 20K further on. Here we refueled (taking ages – hope this problem gets a solution soon!), filled the water tank at the Information Centre, got some info there and went to the Spar supermarket  for eggs. We were down to 20% water in the tank – good to know we can comfortably carry enough for a full week including showering daily. And we read our emails, caught up with Facebook and rang family. Not having internet is good for a little while, but we’ve become so dependent on it that it is truly appreciated when you get it back after going without for a while.

It seems every country town out here has a windmill in its park, and Springsure is an exception.

It seems every country town out here has a windmill in its park, and Springsure is no exception.

Heading off from Springsure we left the highway after 50K, heading south towards Ka Ka Mundi. The road serviced the cattle stations along the way. There can’t be much money in cattle judging by the very modest station homesteads. The countryside was open, undulating grasslands stretching to the Great Dividing Range seen in the distance. it was quite striking against the cloudless deep blue sky. Most of the road was unsealed, but in very good condition, maintained for the cattle trucks I guess. The last section before the park was through Yandaburra, one of the cattle stations.

Priscilla enters Yandaburra station.

Priscilla enters Yandaburra station.

Once in Ka Ka Mundi the road condition deteriorated, but wasn’t too bad. We put Priscilla into 4WD to be on the safe side, only needing it in a few sandy sections. Not too bad really. The campsite was about 12K inside the Park.

And here we are at last.

And here we are at last.

Ka Ka Mundi is in a remote section of the Carnarvon National Park. It had sandstone escarpments which we found to be weathered quite uniquely – different to the other parks. There were many caves in the escarpments formed in startlingly white sandstone.
About 250metres from the campsite is a spring – Bunbuncundoo Springs. The Aboriginals who used to live here before European settlement believed this spring held healing powers and would bathe their sickly children in its waters. It’s a lovely spring, quite fast flowing considering the predominantly dry countryside. The little brook fed by its waters is lush with tree ferns and coral ferns. Quite an oasis. The aboriginals also believed the caves around the Spring were home to Eunjies, contact with the spirit form of them leading to illness. Hence they didn’t wander from their campfires until daybreak. Neither will I!!

See the water gushing out  of the Bunbuncundoo Spring.

See the water gushing out of the Bunbuncundoo Spring.

Those caves - are they really home to spirit creatures?

Those caves – are they really home to spirit creatures?

We sat beside Priscilla after dinner gazing for ages at the beautiful sky filled with stars. No lights to detract for many, many kilometres around – what a treat!

To see the photos for this section of the trip click HERE.
Distance travelled: 158K

Here’s a map of the routes we took getting to the National Parks:

From Theodore to Ka Ka Mundi via Lake Murphy and Robinsons Gorge

From Theodore to Ka Ka Mundi via Lake Murphy and Robinsons Gorge

Day 7: Robinson Gorge to Staircase Range

Today we farewell Trish and Bryan as they head home. We all left just after breakfast parting company at the turnoff into the Park with Trish and Bryan heading south and us north along Glenhaughton Road. The Hema map had a choice of several unsealed roads we could take. The road wasn’t well maintained and it needed 4WD for most of it and we travelled pretty slowly. It took us about 5 hours to get to the Dawson Highway during which time we didn’t see another vehicle or human. That said though, it was on the whole a really lovely drive.

Definitely a road less travelled.

Definitely a road less travelled.

Thanks little man. Got it!

Thanks little man. Got it!

Once on the highway we still had 140K to go to Springsure and another 2 hours to get to Ka Ka Mundi – too far after all that concentration needed for the first part of the trip. We looked for a camp and found a free camp just outside Springsure at Staircase Range Cutting. It’s just off the road, but well out of sight and has a fire place and a concrete picnic table. The historic cutting it ajoins was carved through the rock in 1905 by Chinese labourers using hand tools. Hard work!

Staircase Range historical cutting.

Staircase Range historical cutting.

Despite being quite close to the road we weren’t disturbed during the night as there is very little traffic after dark.

To see the photos for this section of the trip click HERE.
Distance travelled: 302K

Days 5 & 6: Robinson Gorge

Saturday 25th

We decided to do the two other walks today, one this morning to Shepherds Peak and one this afternoon to the Lookout then spend tomorrow doing nothing all day. Sounds good.

The steep climb up Shepherds Peak was worth every one of the many calories expended getting there.

The steep climb up Shepherds Peak was worth every one of the many calories expended getting there.

Shepherds Peak is a sandstone plateau about 2K from camp. An easy walk to get there, but quite steep to climb to the plateau. Listed as a Class 4 walk it was tricky in places and demanded full attention. Steve stepped on a loose rock crossing one of the crevasses and took a tumble sustaining only hurt pride fortunately as a huge boulder blocked his descent down to the bottom! On top the views over the park and gorge is excellent – 360 degrees. Again with sheer cliff edges and lots of crevasses it’s not a place you’d take children.
We spent quite a while exploring the plateau and taking photos – every view was so rewarding. AND we got phone cover so checked emails and phoned family.

Shepherds Peak. Can you see us on the far cliff?

Shepherds Peak. Can you see us on the far cliff?

Back to camp for lunch.
Robinson Gorge Lookout late afternoon. We toyed with taking wine and having wine o’clock watching the sun set over the gorge, but with a 2K walk back to camp in the dusk we thought we might be cutting it too fine. And there was also the access to the gorge here which we thought we’d like to do. So off we set sans vino (mixing my languages there maybe).
Again wonderful views and well worth every step. The gorge floor looked so interesting and inviting to explore. We took a look at the access to the gorge and decided we’d really like to spend lots of unhurried time exploring down there so put it off until tomorrow.

The northern end of Robinson Gorge.

The northern end of Robinson Gorge.

Back to camp for the usual – campfire, wine, chat, dinner.
We’ve been very lucky with the weather – chilly mornings and evenings but glorious cloud-free days. The sky at night is just a million stars – even a shooting star!

One worker; one supervisor! Campsite BBQ at Robinson Gorge

One worker; one supervisor! Campsite BBQ at Robinson Gorge

To see more photos from this section of the trip click HERE.

Sunday 26th

After breakfast we all headed back to Robinson Gorge Lookout to explore the gorge floor. This is the only place you can get down the gorge cliffs. Needless to say it was very steep and we went down much of it backwards. However National Parks has cut foot-holes into the sheerest parts of the sandstone to make it do-able. There was also a steep sandy part too that we slid down – going up this bit was tough.

Conveniently carved stone steps. Photos always make it look less steep that it actually is!

Conveniently carved stone steps. Photos always make it look less steep that it actually is!

On the gorge floor it felt like we were in the Journey to the Centre of the Earth where the plants were unique and it felt so different from ‘up there’. We scrambled over rocks and logs and got to the water’s edge and followed it, with lots more scrambling and climbing for a while before heading back. The climb back up the cliff, while strenuous, didn’t seem as difficult as the climb down, apart from the loose sand section.

The gorge floor. Challenging to explore.

The gorge floor. Challenging to explore.

We were back in plenty of time to shower before lunch, then more relaxing. Played 500; chicks vs cockrels, with chicks winning convincingly, naturally.
The boys organised another fantastic campfire to cook our meal on and relax by until bedtime.

To see more photos from this section of the trip click HERE.

Day 4: Lake Murphy to Robinson Gorge

Our convoy at the turnoff to Robinson Gorge.

Our convoy at the turnoff to Robinson Gorge.

Robinson Gorge is a bit further west of Lake Murphy along the Glenhaughton Road – a good dirt road. The last 16K on Currajong Rd into the park however were 4WD only. There were some rough patches but on the whole pretty good until just immediately before the campground where the road goes down a rocky and washed out hill to a dry creek crossing packed with rocks. A little thought to our track and Priscilla was through it without a bother.
Another excellent National Parks campground similar to that at Lake Murphy.

Distance travelled: 66K

Another excellent National Parks campsite.

Another excellent National Parks campsite. Note: This is the road into the campsite – down this hill and across the stony gully at the bottom.

Another well-maintained and pretty campsite.

Another well-maintained and pretty campsite.

“Winding for 14K between sheer sandstone cliffs up to 100m high, Robinson Gorge is one of the main features of the large and remote Expedition National park. Robinson Gorge is unusual – it begins as a broad, shallow basin before narrowing to a deep pool in a narrow gorge only six metres wide near its southern end.”
There are 3 walks to do here, so we decided to get started on them today. First one is the 6.5K return walk to the Cattle Dip, which is actually the very narrow end of the gorge with the deep pool. It does resemble a cattle dip! Most of this walk was along a road, which we could have driven, but we all felt like a bit of exercise. Being sandstone the cliff edges of the gorge are sheer and crumbly. The Cattle Dip was viewed from the top of the cliff and looks very inviting. We’re pretty sure we saw either a turtle or playpus in it – bit hard to tell as it’s a long way down and no way to get there.
Back to camp for campfire and dinner.

The very narrow end of Robinson Gorge, known as the 'Cattle Dip' for obvious reasons.

The very narrow end of Robinson Gorge, known as the ‘Cattle Dip’ for obvious reasons.

Days 2 & 3: Isla to Lake Murphy

Still in bed when we got the call from Trish and Bryan, who had setup their camper trailer at Lake Murphy yesterday, saying they were on their way over. When they arrived we took a good look at this lovely gorge and walked out to the lookout along a ridge that seemed to protrude into the gorge. This gave us amazing views of the gorge on both sides. I can highly recommend this spot to travellers as it’s only 1.3K off the highway.

Isla Gorge information board.

Isla Gorge information board.

Bryan wanted to refuel so we all set off for Theodore, then took a scenic drive around to the west of the highway, past Flagstaff Hill at the western end of Isla Gorge National Park, to end at Lake Murphy Conservation Area.

Delightful drive between Theodore and Lake Murphy.

Delightful drive between Theodore and Lake Murphy.

As I’d been the one who planned the trip, Trish and Bryan felt they’d been sold a pup when there was no water to be seen in the Lake, particularly as they were camped here for 3 nights. I knew that, must have neglected to tell them. They insisted that we should have the joy of walking to the ‘lakes’ edge. Yep, totally covered in waist-high reeds or something.

A lake of weeds.

A lake of weeds.

Back to the campsite for wine o’clock, a great campfire and a catch-up.
Total driven: 140K

Sunset - note sun on tops of trees.

Sunset – note sun on tops of trees.

April 23rd

Guess where we are?

Guess where we are?

After a lovely slow start to the day we set off on the 4K circuit walk mid-afternoon. The plant-life in the park area is quite different to the countryside we have travelled through with Dawson Palms and River Red Gums predominating. A pleasant walk.
The campsite here is excellent. Very large campsites each with a wood fire and picnic table cordoned off from the next by logs. Grassy and well maintained with clean drop toilets and tank water. No other campers here during our stay – they don’t know what they’re missing!
Another campfire tonight, campfire talk and off to bed.

Setting off on the circuit walk.

Setting off on the circuit walk.

To see more photos from this section of the trip click HERE.