West and Central Eyre Peninsula

1st – 7th April 2017

Saturday 1st

After a quick restock in Port Lincoln we headed to Coffin Bay. I was pleased to see that it was Flinders who named this location after Admiral Coffin, and not that it got its name for some other macabre reason.

Across the oyster beds to Coffin Bay township.

Across the oyster beds to Coffin Bay township.

Coffin Bay is a fisherman’s dream come true – 20 kilometres of protected seaways and apparently an abundance of sea creatures to be caught. Not being particularly interested in that aspect, other than when our lovely neighbour at the caravan park gave us some freshly caught and filleted fish, we cycled (illegally) the Oyster Trail for 6 km along the foreshore before heading out to dinner at 1802 Oyster Bar. We both had oyster entrees. Steve’s were pistachio-crumbed grilled oysters, mine were natural in gin and tonic – talk about heaven!

Lovely bike ride (even if we shouldn't have been riding!). Coffin Bay Oyster Trail.

Lovely bike ride (even if we shouldn’t have been riding!). Coffin Bay Oyster Trail.

Sunday 2nd

This morning was a walking day – we walked to the lookout then the other direction of the Oyster Walk (from yesterday’s ride) – about 8 km. Oysters were originally dredged, which unfortunately led to their near extinction by the end of the 19th century. In 1969 the Japanese Pacific oyster was successfully trialled and that is now the predominant oyster grown here, though there are attempts to reintroduce the native Angasi oyster.
As it just so happened we had to walk past 1802 Oyster Bar on our way back – I felt I’d earned another half-dozen gin and tonic oysters!

These were the most amazing oysters ever! Coffin Bay

These were the most amazing oysters ever! Coffin Bay

In the afternoon we practiced changing the tyres on the motorhome. With our remote outback travel drawing ever closer we wanted to be sure we had the right equipment.

Monday 3rd

Before leaving Coffin Bay we took a drive into the National Park, went for a run on the beach, then headed north along the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula.

These pedestrians were in no hurry to cross the road - we waited patiently. They know what it means to live in a National Park, at Coffin Bay.

These pedestrians were in no hurry to cross the road. They know what it means to live in a National Park, at Coffin Bay.

To see the photos we took in the Coffin Bay area CLICK HERE.

The countryside is mostly grazed by sheep or cattle with some wheat. At the moment it’s looking very brown – goodness knows what the sheep are eating. We also passed several dry salt lakes, one large salt lake with water and lots of very, very rocky fields. Not inspiring countryside.

Lunch stop was at a pretty spectacular lookout – the Leo Cummings Memorial Lookout. The outlook is over the cliffs to the Bight. The Great Australian Bight begins at Cape Carnot, which we saw on the Whalers Way, and is believed to be the longest line of sea cliffs in the world, running more than 1,100 km. The relentless pounding of the ocean against the crumbling limestone cliffs is frighteningly awesome.

Stunning coastline of the Great Australian Bight as seen from Leo Cummings Lookout.

Stunning coastline of the Great Australian Bight as seen from Leo Cummings Lookout.

Would you believe it, when we arrived at our campsite at Walkers Rocks, our front passenger side tyre was rapidly deflating!

Tuesday 4th

It was late when we got in so left the tyre changing until this morning. Despite yesterday’s preemptive practice we ran into a few hitches – one jack can’t lift the vehicle high enough to put the new wheel on. We had to use two jacks – luckily Steve always carries a spare!

Bit tricky to get the motorhome high enough to change the wheel. Two jacks did the trick.

Bit tricky to get the motorhome high enough to change the wheel. Two jacks did the trick.

That done we took a long refreshing 5 km walk along the beach before setting off for Venus Bay. Here we’d planned to spend the night at the caravan park. No way – the park was full and vans were so close you could hear the person next door change their mind. We stopped in a beachside park for lunch, then did the 2.5 km South Head Walking Trail which took us along the very pretty bay side of the headland and up over the top to the rugged ocean side with its imposing cliffs. Lovely walk.

Quite an attractive walk around the headland at Venus Bay. This is the calm side.

Quite an attractive walk around the headland at Venus Bay. This is the calm side.

Venus Bay township itself though is little more than the caravan park and a cluster of small holiday shacks, mostly without lawns, trees, gardens or any other landscaping – in other words, if you don’t want to fish then Venus Bay is not for you.

Continuing on we arrived in Streaky Bay late afternoon and booked into a new caravan park on the north side of town. Talk about flash! Very large sites, tiered up the hill so everyone has ocean views, a licensed shop, lovely rec room, laundry trolleys to take your washing to the line, and the piece de resistance – the ablutions block has lots of little separate bathrooms, each with its own toilet, shower and handbasin.

Very pretty foreshore and jetty at Streaky Bay.

Very pretty foreshore and jetty at Streaky Bay.

Wednesday 5th

Streaky Bay is a pretty little town with a lovely foreshore, jetty and facilities – and good internet! We stayed there for a while catching up on personal admin before beginning the trip across the central part of the Eyre Peninsula.

CLICK HERE to see the photos we took as we followed the western coastline of the Eyre Peninsula.

Back into wheat and sheep country. The fields are ploughed and farmers awaiting the first rains before they plant next season’s crop – a fairly stark drive to the tiny township of Minnipa then on to the free camp at Pildappa Rock. On the way though we passed through Poochera, famous for its Dinosaur Ants! (See the photos linked to later to read about them.)

Pildappa Rock is a granite ‘wave rock’ and quite stunning as it rises out of the flat countryside that surrounds it.

The wave-like effect of Pildappa Rock.

The wave-like effect of Pildappa Rock.

Late afternoon we climbed it to enjoy the view over the wheat farms to the Gawler Ranges. The surface of the rock had many ‘basins’ of all sizes on its surface. Being granite these, of course, would hold water after rain but as it hasnt rained for ages down here they’re all dry. We were admiring the view when a couple of heads suddenly popped up from one of these basins – Rod and Maree, other campers, were sheltering from the wind in one of the basins and invited us to join them. It was plenty big enough for us all. We sheltered with them until time for the obligatory sunset photos.

In the 'basin' on top of Pildappa Rock at sunset.

In the ‘basin’ on top of Pildappa Rock at sunset.

Thursday 6th

Not a happy day today! We headed off to the Gawler Ranges to see the Organ Pipes rock formation. The dirt road was pretty good, corrugated in places, until we got into the National Park, then it deteriorated quickly to rocky with tough mallee roots coming in from the sides. The rangers had made detours around the worst patches, but we unfortunately caught the sharp end of a mallee root into the side wall of one of our rear tyres. Damn!

Damn! And damn again!

Damn! And damn again!

We are a well-oiled machine at tyre changing now! However, we no longer have a spare. With that in mind we decided not to continue along this road, nor do the scenic road through the park to the far side. Damn again!
However all was not lost. Just as we’d finished the tyre change along came Rod and Maree and offered to take us the 3km remaining of this road to see the Organ Pipes. One consolation, the road continued to get worse, so a good decision by us not to risk it. The Organ Pipes were very interesting, just hard to get too excited when we were both so preoccupied by thoughts of tyres.

The 'pipe' were pretty interesting.

The ‘pipes’ were pretty interesting.

Back at Priscilla and before they left us Rod and Steve had a cold beer and Maree and I had home-brewed (by Rod) Malibu and pineapple slushies – wow, that sure lifted my mood!

Following this we drove on to the little town of Wudinna where we parked in the shade, had lunch and began investigations to change all our tyres to a tougher off-road brand. Of particular note at Wudinna is a very beautiful granite sculpture to the farmers and community of the district.

Granite monument to the Australian Farmer. Note the wheat sheaves, the smaller figures representing family and the sheep.

Granite monument to the Australian Farmer. Note the wheat sheaves, the smaller figures representing family and the sheep.

Carrying on we stayed the night in Kimba Lions Park – nope, not a white lion to be seen anywhere – no sense of humour here! A good little free camp in the middle of this small town.

Friday 7th

The saga of the tyres was still consuming us and after numerous phone calls and long discussions to every relevant person or business we could think of we finally came to the conclusion that the Continental truck tyres we have are actually pretty good and we have just been unlucky. Decision made and booked into tyre place in Adelaide to have the two damaged wheels fixed as soon as we can.

Kimba has a few claims to fame; its Big Galah, which I didn’t feel the urge to photograph; being the halfway point between the west coast and the east coast; and its Roora Walk which winds through lovely arid-climate bushland, past several very cute sculptures of animals made from recycled steel up to White Knob where there are clear views for 50km all around – it’s not high, but the countryside is so flat it doesn’t need to be.

Edward John Eyre and his friend Wylie looking over the countryside they're yet to explore. At Kimba.

Edward John Eyre and his friend Wylie looking over the countryside they’re yet to explore. At Kimba.

Also up here are the quite famous steel sculptures of Edward John Eyre and his indispensable indigenous friend and guide, Wylie. Eyre is the first white explorer in this area and right across the Great Australian Bight. The return walk was about 6.5km. CLICK HERE to see some of the fauna we saw along the walk.

Back at the motorhome we moved on to Iron Knob. As you drive towards town the iron ore quarry greets you, followed by decrepit houses. This is a very sad town. Iron Knob is said to be the birthplace of Australia’s steel industry. Quarrying for iron ore commenced here in 1900, with the very high quality ore being sent to the steelworks in Port Kembla, Newcastle and Whyalla for either processing or exporting. Mining operations, however, closed down in 1998 and Iron Knob very nearly became a ghost town, only saved by the comparatively very low housing prices. 15 years later, in 2013, mining was resumed, though only for the next 10 years. The townspeople have developed a tourism business by creating a great free camping area, which we’re now in, running mine tours and having a unique golf course.

Looking over the tiny township of Iron Knob to the tailings of the iron ore mine behind.

Looking over the tiny township of Iron Knob to the tailings of the iron ore mine behind.

We complete our circumnavigation of the Eyre Peninsula back at Port Augusta.

A lovely park at the very tip of Spencers Gulf at Port Augusta.

A lovely park at the very tip of Spencers Gulf at Port Augusta.

For a look at all the photos from the Central Eyre Peninsula CLICK HERE.

 

 

Whalers Way & Mikkira Station

29th – 31st March

An overnight in Port Lincoln once again provided opportunity to restock everything we needed, plus a trip to the Information Centre to book The Whalers Way to pick up the key for the gate ready for an early entry tomorrow. ($30 entry + o/n camp; $5 each additional night).

Whalers Way is a 14km scenic route that follows a spectacular, cliff-edged coastline around the most southerly point of the Eyre Peninsula. It was named for the Whalers who hunted the southern right whales off this coast from 1837 – 1841, not very successfully apparently.

106 metre cliffs meet the ocean at Cape Wiles. See the fur seals, enlarged in the inset.

106 metre cliffs meet the ocean at Cape Wiles. See the fur seals, enlarged in the inset.

The photographs I’ve linked to show you the views we enjoyed. The ocean along this coast leaves one in awe of its power and dominance over the land. Our campsite at Redbanks was among the best we’ve had so far on this journey.

We camped at the base of a sand dune which is protecting us from the prevailing wind. Idyllic location, once again. Redbanks campsite.

We camped at the base of a sand dune which is protecting us from the prevailing wind. Idyllic location, once again. Redbanks campsite.

Just a personal soapbox opportunity here though … the unsuccessful and cruel whaling industry was here for 4 years in the early 1800s. It’s not a part of our history that I feel needs commemorating! I’d much rather the drive were related to the indigenous people who cared for this southerly point for thousands of years.

For more photos from the stunning Whalers Way CLICK HERE.

Friday 31st

We viewed a few more fantastic parts of the coastline this morning before leaving the Whalers Way, heading for Mikkira Station, a camping ground on a sheep station on the way back towards Port Lincoln. ($25/n)

This property, or ‘sheep run’ as it was originally called, was first settled in 1839. The original homestead as well as stone fences and the huge chimney from the shearer quarters remain. But of great delight to us are all the magnificent old manna gums around the camping area that are chockas with koalas. In just a short walk we spotted more than 20. Such beautiful animals – so relaxing.

Mikkira_koala16

For more photos from Mikkira Station, and the koalas, CLICK HERE.

 

Lincoln National Park

23rd – 28th March 2017

Thursday 23rd

After a bit more of a look around Port Lincoln we headed south to the National Park – it’s a short drive. Of the several camps available we chose a close one that was well recommended – Surfleet Cove. You know, it was alright, nothing wrong with it – sealed road in, numbered, separate sites, clean loos, water from a tank, and even a ‘camp host’.  However the site was off the beach a little (50 metres) and you couldn’t see the water. We went for a 6km loop walk, part of the ‘Investigator Trail’ – it was good to get moving again. A family of emus met us on the beach and later wandered through our campsite – that was a bit special.

A family of emus on the beach at Surfleet Cove. Dad at the back and 7 adolescents in front.

A family of emus on the beach at Surfleet Cove. Dad at the back and 7 adolescents in front.

Friday 24th we decided to go for a drive and look at the other campsites. Didn’t take long to lose the sealed road, but it still wasn’t too bad. We found a site we loved so stayed there – another of the advantages of a motorhome, not having to go back to pack up the caravan when you change your mind.

Fisherman Point divides Boston Bay on one side and the delightful Fisherman Cove on the other. We camped perched atop the cliff overlooking the cove from the side of the motorhome and Port Lincoln in the distance from the back doors. Wow – now this is more like it! Million dollar views!

This is our campsite at Fisherman Point in Lincoln NP, at low tide. We loved it here so much we stayed for a lot longer than planned. Access to the beach was very easy down a well-formed path.

This is our campsite (on the cliff top) at Fisherman Point in Lincoln NP, at low tide. We loved it here so much we stayed for a lot longer than planned. Access to the beach was very easy down a well-formed path.

Saturday 25th we set off to do the ‘out and back’ walk to the lighthouse, another section of the Investigator Trail, but enjoyed the walk so much we went on to see Donington Peninsula and explore a little down the eastern coast before crossing through the middle back to home.

The Investigator was the name of the ship Matthew Flinders used to circumnavigate Australia in 1801/2 mapping the coastline as he went. His maps were so accurate it wasn’t until recent years that they were replaced. Flinders was born in Donington in Lincolnshire – after which he named this area. Flinders rates very highly in South Australia with many places named in his honour, not the least being the Flinders Ranges where we’ll be in a few weeks time. It was Flinders who put forward the suggestion that the whole continent should be named Australia, replacing New Holland and New South Wales – for that I am very grateful! An excellent book I can recommend by David Hill is, The Great Race. The race between the English and the French to complete the Map of Australia.

On our walk around Donington Peninsula, Lincoln NP. Note the low shrubby flora. A lot of variety in the shrubs, some were flowering.

On our walk around Donington Peninsula, Lincoln NP. Note the low shrubby flora. A lot of variety in the shrubs, some were flowering.

Several sections of the walk are along the beach, then on paths through low shrub bushland and finally a good sandy path back across the island. A truly enjoyable 13 km walk on an overcast, pleasantly cool day. A very well sign-posted path – well done SA Parks.

Arty shot of a pelican and a cormorant at rest. Lincoln NP

Arty shot of a pelican and a cormorant at rest. Lincoln NP

Sunday 26th Being a weekend there’s a few extra campers here. It seems the Port Lincoln locals come over to camp then motor their boats over, it’s only 5 nm across Boston Bay. During the day our little cove entertained 2 or 3 groups of people, BBQing on the beach, pulling an inflatable with kids on it behind the boat and generally having a good time. They all left early afternoon and once more the serenity of the campsite has been restored – just us, the gulls, pelicans and numerous other birds … and two other campers, well away from us. I’ve really enjoyed the birdlife here, there’s so many different types of birds, both land and seabirds. A pair of beautifully coloured parrots that we’d never seen before visit the trees beside our campsite each evening. I looked them up in bird book and, believe it or not, they’re Port Lincoln Parrots. I’m pleased we spotted them.

The Port Lincoln Parrot. Thanks Wikicommons.

The Port Lincoln Parrot. Thanks Wikicommons.

A brief walk on the beach followed by a swim just before sunset finished off a perfect day.

Contemplating sunset at Fisherman Point campsite. This is a Pacific Gull - a much larger bird than the Silver Gulls we are used to, but smaller then the Kelp Gull that are also on this coastline.

Contemplating sunset at Fisherman Point campsite. This is a Pacific Gull – a much larger bird than the Silver Gulls we are used to, but smaller than the Kelp Gull that are also on this coastline.

We’re booked in to Memory Cove for the next two days but have decided to stay here – it’s beautiful and relaxing with plenty to do, so why move!

Monday and Tuesday 27th and 28th

And it has been a relaxing and enjoyable 6 days here in the National Park. Since the weekend we’ve had the place to ourselves. We’ve swum, walked, rested, did little things around the motorhome, cooked, eaten yummy meals, and read books – just what we both needed. Today Steve started investigating geocaches in the area. There are several around so we set off on a walk to find a couple of them. The first was at the far end of our beach and, while tricky to find, Steve was successful.

Awww - how happy is he! He's just found the geocache.

Awww – how happy is he! He’s just found the geocache.

The next one was further away hidden amongst some very old, but very interesting, rusting farm machinery. Unfortunately he wasn’t so successful with that one.

Aww look at that sad face! No geocache could be found. :-(

Aww look at that sad face! No geocache could be found. 🙁

Tomorrow we leave the Park. It’s been a good stay and I recommend it to everyone reading this.

To see more of our photos of Lincoln National Park CLICK HERE.

To Port Lincoln

18th – 22nd March 2017

Sunday 18th March

Today we’re heading for Whyalla. We took the opportunity of driving on the back country roads – so much more peaceful. The countryside was flat and the wheat had been harvested leaving brown stubble and occasional sheep grazing. Not the most exciting drive, but interesting for what it is nevertheless.

On the way is Mt Remarkable National Park. I must admit we both laughed when we saw the ‘mountain’ rising above the plains – these South Aussies have to get out more if they think that is remarkable! We drove up on the eastern side of the park to have a look around and do a bit of walking. It’s a steep, winding road up (no caravans or trailers allowed). Alligator Gorge is the predominant landform here. We joined a few walks together to make one decent one and had to admit that the gorge is quite remarkable after all. The red cliffs were stunning – reminiscent of Ormiston Gorge in the Northern Territory.

The red cliffs were quite beautiful, as were the trees growing in the gorge. Mt Remarkable

The red cliffs were quite beautiful, as were the trees growing in the gorge. Mt Remarkable

At Whyalla we drove up to The Hummock to get a view over town. The steel works was one side, a nice beach and foreshore on the other. We camped at the sports club ($10) – lovely friendly people. The next morning just before we left the caretaker lady came around on her bike and gave us a brown paper bag of home baked goodies. Wasn’t that lovely!

The steel works at Whyalla, taken from The Hummock.

The steel works at Whyalla, taken from The Hummock.

Monday & Tuesday 19th, 20th March

We followed the coastline down the east coast of the Eyre Peninsula on a good unsealed road. There are several free camps on the beach, most taken up with campers keen on fishing. However we did find a small one with no one else there so settled in comfortably to have a good break. (It’s the campsite north of Port Gibbon that doesn’t have a sign saying ‘beach access’ as the others do).

The perfect campsite. Near Port Gibbon

The perfect campsite. Near Port Gibbon

We’re here for two nights. Both days we went for a swim and walks on the beach, the second day to Port Gibbon and back, doing our HIIT training on the way back. The beach is beautifully white, while the crumbling cliffs that bound it are red conglomerate. Many of the holes in the cliff face have pairs of pink galahs sitting outside them – I guess they’re nesting/breeding in them.

The setting sun on the red cliffs at our campsite, near Port Gibbon.

The setting sun on the red cliffs at our campsite, near Port Gibbon.

Wednesday & Thursday 21st, 22nd March

The wind came up overnight, quashing our plans for an early morning swim before heading on to Port Lincoln. The salt bush one side of the road and salt flats the other soon gave way to wheat country. Three out of every four vehicles we saw were road trains carrying wheat to Port Lincoln. On the way we stopped at Tumby Bay for a cuppa and a look around. Lovely town – nice foreshore and park. We were very surprised to come across Steve and Leonie who were pulled up in their caravan not far from us – friends from just up the road back home. Small world. We both ended up in Port Lincoln caravan park for two nights.

Port Lincoln refers to itself as the Seafood Capital of Australia. Just my kind of place. There are tuna farms, oyster leases and a huge fishing fleet here. Lunch was calamari and King George whiting – yum.

Priscilla (our motorhome) inspecting the fishing fleet at Port Lincoln. Serious problems for fish this lot!

Priscilla (our motorhome) inspecting the fishing fleet at Port Lincoln. Serious problems for fish from this lot!

Thursday was a work day – washing, shopping, cooking, motorhome maintenance. We’ve purchased our park passes from the Info Centre and will be heading in to Port Lincoln National Park tomorrow for at least a week, hence the need for supplies. A welcome relief was going out to the pub for dinner with Steve and Leonie.

To see photos of our trip to Port Lincoln CLICK HERE.