Lindeman Island

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30th Sept: Lindeman to Gulnare Inlet

The forecast is for strong to gale force winds for a few days starting from Friday – darn! We were intending to drop into Hamilton or Airlie soon anyway to replenish supplies so it is rather timely. We’ve still got today with pleasant sailing!

In the absence of the promised mooring buoys off Lindeman Resort we anchored and went ashore. This is another deserted resort. It was closed in January 2012 citing the downturn caused by the GFC and cyclone damage. White Horse Ltd, a Chinese subsidiary purchased it soon after and currently has a proposal in for 335 suites and villas across 5 precincts including 5 and 6 star accommodation, golf course, marina, upgraded airfield, etc, etc. At least this will be a resort that lots of people will be able to enjoy one day, unlike Brampton’s plans.

The resort has 3 caretakers who keep the grounds in reasonable condition. The buildings aren’t being maintained and one of the caretakers told us the basic infrastructure for water, sewerage, electricity is in poor condition. The resort will be bulldozed – but goodness knows when they’ll start works.

The empty beach on such a perfect day tells its own story of this resort.

The empty beach on such a perfect day tells its own story of this resort.

We were keen to walk to the top of Mt Oldfield, having been told the views are very good. The caretaker directed us to the beginning of it at the far end of the airfield. Another enjoyable walk of about 8km. The 360 degree views from the grassy knoll at the top gave us almost a bird’s eye view of the ocean and islands surrounding Lindeman. The islands seem to float in the subtly graded blues of the ocean and sky.

Panorama from Mt Oldfield.

Panorama from Mt Oldfield.

To view our photos from Lindeman Resort and Mt Oldfield CLICK HERE

Back at the boat we up-anchored and headed towards Gulnare Inlet, not far north of Hamilton Island. This is a narrow and fairly shallow Inlet that is very well protected from winds from nearly every direction. The sailing was enjoyable with Ray on the helm. Passing between Hamilton and Dent Islands the waters were really weird – like a washing machine, but that soon passed and after carefully following the geographical leads into Gulnare Inlet we anchored and prepared for a very peaceful night. Ingrid and Ken (On the Wing) were also anchored there but we didn’t catch up with them

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29th Sept: Lindeman Island

Ahh such a peaceful night! We were going to do so many things today, but just didn’t get around to it. We did take the tender ashore and explored a little stoney beach beside Plantation Bay, then went around a small headland to Plantation Bay which has a lovely sandy beach. I wonder why one is all stones and the one beside it sandy?
We’ve got one more day of light winds before it starts picking up and by the weekend we’ll have gale-force winds.
Our lovely quiet anchorage has 12 boats in it tonight, all moving gradually closer to a safe harbour.

The sandy beach at Plantation Bay.

The sandy beach at Plantation Bay.

To see photos from Plantation Bay on Lindeman Island, CLICK HERE.

(PS: Happy birthday Deb and Lynise)

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27-28 Sept: Thomas Island to Lindeman Island

27th Sept

Had a lousy sleep last night – we may have been out of the current, but we were so shallow that the swell became waves under us. At low tide it was like being on a roller coaster – maybe not that bad, but for a couple of hours until the tide came in a bit we were miserable campers..
Decided to move on to Thomas Island. This is in the Lindeman Islands National Parks group.

To make the most of the ESE winds we came up the eastern side of Thomas. The seas were choppy, and while we made really good time, averaging 4.5kn, it wasn’t a pleasant sail. Just off the northern tip of Thomas Is there’s a small island, Dead Dog Island and just off that a huge rock called Fairlight Rock. Our route went between them. The book did say to watch out for ‘overfalls’ when the current is maximum, which it was … We went through the gap very fast! The swell was about 2 – 3 meters, breaking waves to the side of us, and we were being swept towards the rock. Fortunately just before we entered the pass Steve put the motor on and made sure we had control. We were relieved when that was behind us.

Our journey finished at ‘Naked Lady Beach’ ( true, that is its name). Around low tide we went ashore with oyster knife and bucket. Tonight for dinner I had four dozen black-lip oysters gently sautéed in coconut oil with a dash of tamari – heaven!

The very pretty Naked Lady Beach on Thomas Island.

The very pretty Naked Lady Beach on Thomas Island.

28th Sept

For an hour or so around low tide the boat rolled very uncomfortably – unfortunately this was just before dawn, so we both started the day less perky than usual. Fortunately it only got better from there on.
The book mentioned you could walk across the island from Naked Lady Beach. This little bay has to be the prettiest we’ve seen, and that’s saying a lot. We found the path and followed it through mangroves, melaleucas, grass trees and finally coming out to a tiny, rocky bay with a pumice-stone beach. It was so picturesque. Thoughtful previous visitors had constructed a driftwood lean-to giving great shade. They must have been builders – it was so well constructed using only driftwood and rocks. We sat in the shade under it for a while watching the crystal clear water lapping the rocks with the brilliant turquoise ocean beyond. It was pretty close to a spiritual experience.

Time to meditate, at our secret bay.

Time to meditate, at our secret bay.

This driftwood lean-to was fabulous to sit in the shade and look at the ocean.

This driftwood lean-to was fabulous to sit in the shade and look at the ocean.

To view more photos from our time at Thomas Island CLICK HERE.

Back to the boat we had some lunch and got ready to sail, catching the ebbing tide north again. Burning Point on Shaw Island was our destination. The sailing started very slowly with light winds, so light we motor-sailed for half an hour. Once we changed direction and cleared the island we made good time just sailing. A change of wind direction though meant our chosen anchorage wasn’t the best. A quick look at the book and we decided on Plantation Bay on Lindeman Island instead – good decision! It’s a very calm anchorage – no rocking and rolling. There’s just us and a catamaran here.

Full moon tonight – always spectacular when viewed from the cockpit of a yacht.

Full moon over Lindeman Island.

Full moon over Lindeman Island.