23-24 Sept: Brampton Island

23rd Sept
Quiet day today with only snorkelling just before low tide planned. The channel between Brampton and Carlisle has a central reef. I donned my stinger suit (a sight to behold!), Steve put on his wetsuit and off we went in the tender. The tide was so low we needed to go around Pelican Island to get to the channel. Steve’s snorkelling gear was a new purchase but took no time at all to get used to it. There was a lot of reedy sea grass growing, apparently smothering some of the coral bommies. We found a few not so badly affected and enjoyed seeing a few fish, some pretty corals, lots of sea slugs and quite a few sea urchins. A pleasant snorkel, but nothing to write home about.

24th Sept

Today we ‘do’ the walks.
Despite the circuit track apparently being closed indefinitely due to lack of maintenance we continued on. There were a couple of places where we had to scramble under or over fallen trees, but on the whole it was a well-constructed track that hadn’t suffered much from the neglect. We checked out Oyster and Dinghy Bays on the southern side for future reference, being anchorages in a northerly and climbed to Brampton Peak. All up a walk of around 14km.
We both voted it to be one of the best we’ve ever done. It had everything – thick rainforest, glades of lime-green strappy calves tongue, maidenhair ferns in the gullies, grass trees covering the slopes and beautiful big old hoop pines which are favoured by the screeching sulphur-crested cockatoos, standing sentinel over the southern bays.

Dinghy Bay, Brampton Island. Taken during our bushwalk on the Circuit Track.

Dinghy Bay, Brampton Island. Taken during our bushwalk on the Circuit Track.

But the real highlight of the walk was the butterflies – thousands of blue tiger butterflies all around us as we walked. We could have been walking through a butterfly enclosure there were so many of them.

Blue tiger butterflies. There were clouds of these pretty butterflies surrounding us on our walk.

Blue tiger butterflies. There were clouds of these pretty butterflies surrounding us on our walk.

The climb to the peak was tough – a few hundred meters up over 2 km with lots of switchbacks. The views from the two lookouts were worth the effort – and we got enough internet cover to speak with our children.

The passage between Brampton and Carlisle at low tide. Taken from Brampton Peak.

The passage between Brampton and Carlisle at low tide. Taken from Brampton Peak. Note the disused airport runway.

At sundowners Ken and Ingrid from the ‘trailer tri’ On the Wing came over and shared stories about anchorages and boats.

To see more photos from this beautiful island and our walk CLICK HERE.

22nd Sept: Newry Is to Brampton Island

A calm anchorage like Newry’s is to be savoured. However it’s onward we sail. The forecast of 5 – 15 knots from the south east held on the 20+nm sail to Brampton Island. Brampton is directly east of Newry. Leaving mid-tide we allowed for the ‘ebb’ to firstly carry us north before the ‘flood kicked in to carry us back onto track. With wind and tide sorted all that was left for us to do was set the sails, get Ray going and sit back and enjoy the ride, which we did. The trip took about 6 hours.

Our destination -the gap between Carlisle Island on the left and Brampton Island on the right.

Our destination -the gap between Carlisle Island on the left and Brampton Island on the right.

After a rest we took the tender over to the resort. What a sobering experience. It’s been closed since January 2011. I think it was originally closed when a cyclone damaged the jetty and the light rail line that would take the holiday-makers from the boat to the resort. From the sea it is the vision of a perfect tropical island, golden sands, coconut palms, swimming pool on the edge of the sea, fringing coral reef and accommodation units tucked in amongst the tropical gardens. However close up, the pool, while undamaged is full of green water, the gardens are untended and overgrown, and coconuts and palms fronds litter the pathways. The accommodation units still contain their beds and washing machines and even electric clocks, the restaurant is full of chairs and tables, lounge chairs still in their original wrapping, apparently never been used, and just off the beach at the watersports hut are the surf cats and jet skis. All sadly abandoned!

The beach near the resort on Brampton Island.

The beach near the resort on Brampton Island.

Apparently United Petroleum owns the lease to the resort. They have been talking about redeveloping it for some time with rumoured construction and completion dates wafting past. The latest, published in the newspaper in July this year, is that approval has now been granted for a 7-star “boutique eco-resort featuring luxurious villas, a health spa, yoga platform, cinema, library and a three-hole golf course”, which will cater for … wait for it … a maximum 30 guests. I really felt this resort deserved to be reopened as it is arguably the most idyllic of the tropical north Queensland islands, but to make it so exclusive that few will experience its beauty is a travesty. Fortunately the majority of the island is National Park, but how access to the park will be facilitated is doubtful.

Back to Top Shelf for sundowners and a toast to the Brampton that was. The mournful cry of the curlews and an owl accompanied the somber mood.
A gentle swell and no wind to speak of will give us a restful night.

For photos of the very sad Brampton Island resort, CLICK HERE.