Hike Maria Island, Schouten Island, Freycinet Peninsula

14th -17th April

The much anticipated day of our third Tasmanian multi-day hike, the second with the Tasmanian Walking Company, dawned bright and clear with gentle winds – an important consideration! In Hobart we met our guide Bill and the other three couples we’d be walking and cohabiting with for the next 4 days. This hike, however has a major difference – we’ll be sailing between trailheads. A bus took us to Orford on the east coast where Lady Eugenie was anchored offshore.

The Lady Eugenie, a magnificent 75ft ketch-rigged yacht.

Lady Eugenie is beautiful – all polished and moulded timber and stainless steel. Each couple has their own cabin and ensuite. There’s heaps of room in the lounge below deck, which didn’t get much use due to the weather being so perfect, and the cockpit above where many deep, and not so deep discussions were had while we enjoyed our meals, a few wines and the incredible panorama. Hugo is the Skipper and Sam is first mate.

A short sail today across to Maria Island where the Lady Eugenie anchored off Hopground Beach. Hugo took us ashore in the dinghy, ready to start hiking. Here we joined the Frenches Farm Coastal Trail exploring the Painted Cliffs.

The vivid colours of the Painted Cliffs were formed when iron-enriched ground water soaked through the already formed sandstone layers – the iron interacting with the minerals in the sandstone forming swirls and waves and colours that range from rusty reds to oranges and even purples. It’s very beautiful, the cliffs extending for quite a distance.

Maria Island, like much of Tasmania, has convict labour to thank for the buildings on the island. Maria Island was declared a National Park in 1971. In recent years disease-free Tasmanian devils have been released on the island for the protection of the species.

Read about the history of Maria Island

Lunch today was at the Oast House. It’s one of the oldest oast houses in the country. In its heyday it was producing 3 tonnes of hops. Before you start imagining us at a lovely restaurant with a rustic menu I’ll mention that the Oast House is a ruin and our lunch was a pre-prepared salad we each carried in our backpacks.

It was built on two levels. The ventilation bricks can still be seen separating the two levels.

Darlington became the centre of activity during convict and early colonial days. Due to my sore knee I spent some time here exploring the old buildings and reading their history while the group continued their hike along the coast to the fossil cliffs.

I enjoyed the wildlife!
A Cape Barron Goose
‘Turbo chook’ is the affectionate name given to the Tasmanian Native Hen. However, they have no relationship to domestic chickens but belong to a group of waterfowl known as rails. Tasmanian Native Hens get their nickname from being a very fast runner, reaching speeds of 50 kph.

Dinner tonight in the cockpit, as it was every meal. Tonight we drifted to sleep gently rocked in our cosy bunks after a big day.

Mon 15th April

What a magic morning! After a lovely breakfast together sitting in the cockpit we had a magnificent sail for about 4 hours to get to Schouten Island. Rounding Maria Island the fossil cliffs plunging into the ocean were stunning. 

I’d like to think the Skipper found my assistance invaluable.
A little later we passed nearby to Iles de Phoques. A large colony of New Zealand fur seals call this tiny rocky island home.

Surprisingly there were seals high up on the rocky hill. These seals, unlike many other seal species, have jointed hips they can swivel which allows them to climb. It’s a noisy colony and the call of a seal is not melodious. 

Definitely the best seat on the boat.
A pod of dolphins joined us. Magic!
Anchored off Moreys Beach on the northern side of Schouten Is. Lunch before starting the hike. Cathy, Sam (first mate and chef), Steve and Dee.

Once onshore on Schouten Island we checked out a few historical huts before beginning the hike.

The hike up Bear Hill starts at the end of Moreys Beach.
Bear Hill is so named due to a rock formation that looks remarkably like a bear climbing the hill.

I elected not to do this climb feeling my knee was not quite up to this kind of a hike. The others reported the views from the top were wonderful, but questioned whether the difficult, rocky climb was really worth it – I was pleased I didn’t do it! 

Yay! A successful, if very strenuous climb of Bear Hill. Bill, Steve in front, Kate, Dee, Cathy and Carl with Rick at the back.
Back onboard Lady Eugenie Dee and I jumped in off the yacht for a swim.

The cold water really takes your breath away, but so refreshing. A warm shower later and afternoon tea turned out to be champagne and fresh oysters. I was in heaven! 

Tuesday 16th April

Todays sail took us to Bryans Beach at the southern tip of Freycinet Peninsula. The southern section of this spectacular peninsula is only accessible to hikers and boaties.

Arriving at Bryans Beach. Anticipating the hike to come.
Bryans Beach with Lady Eugenie disappearing in the background. She’ll meet us again at Wineglass Bay.

Today will be our longest hike – 15.5km from Bryans Beach across the headland to Cooks Beach, over another headland to hike the full length of Hazards Beach before crossing the Peninsula on the Isthmus Track to the northern end of Wineglass Bay where we’ll hike the length of it to meet Lady Eugenie at the southern end.

Cooks Cottage

This cottage, which is on the southern end of Cooks Beach was built by graziers in 1859. It was in serious disrepair before being restored in 2007 by volunteers using many of the original bricks. Today it is only to be used as an emergency shelter.

Bill boiling the water for our morning tea. The water tank is greatly appreciated by multi-day hikers.
Morning tea (coffee, tea, hot chocolate and a bikkie) at Cooks Cottage. Carl, Dee, Michael (walking away), Cathy, Steve, Rick, Kate and Bill.
The path down to Cooks Beach
Banksia flowering.
Lunch on the rocks! We’ve walked the length of Cooks Beach, crossed over another headland and arrived at Hazards Beach.
Looking back down Hazards Beach – still more than half of it to go.

At the end of this beach we crossed over to the eastern side. Up until now the hike has been quite beautiful with the Hazards Range overlooking our every step, the bushland, some flowers, the birdlife and the crystal clear blue of the ocean lapping white beaches. Though it wasn’t long, the next section crossing the Peninsula was unattractive with dried up marshes and scant bushland.

Wow what a joy to come out at Wineglass Bay. So beautiful.

The beach hiking here though was really difficult, being high tide we were forced to hike in soft sand. Some found it a lot easier to take the boots off and walk on the wave line or even in the water.

Bill at Wineglass Bay
Lady Eugenie in Wineglass Bay with the pink granite peaks of the Hazards Range watching over her.

Another refreshing swim off the yacht and a glass of wine before dinner ended another magical day of hiking.

Wed 17th April

The Lady Eugenie remained anchored in the protected southern part of Wineglass Bay overnight. This morning it was just a tender transfer back onto the beach for today’s hike.

A beautiful time of day to start our hike on Wineglass Bay

We farewelled Hugo and Sam, then headed off to hike the length of the beach before we joined the track. 

There’s 1000 stairs to climb to reach the Wineglass Bay Lookout. That’s not to be sneezed at! The views of this perfect bay were stunning – the tight-curve of the white sand beach forming a compact bay with deep blue ocean and a cloudless sky – perfection. The surrounding forested and bare pink granite mountains contrasted so starkly. It was a very powerful land- and sea-scape.

The crew at the Wineglass Bay Lookout

You can use your imagination as to why it’s called Wineglass Bay, but you’d probably be wrong. This was a whaling area and whales were dragged into this bay before being slaughtered. The waters of this magnificent bay ran red with their blood, making it look like a glass of red wine.

At the Wineglass Bay Lookout with the beautiful pink granite rocks around us.

Down the other side and we’re, sadly, back to civilisation with so many tourists and cars. We paused for a rest and enjoyed watching the tourists setting off to the Lookout. One man was overheard reassuring his reluctant wife that it was “only 3km” – he didn’t realise that was 1.5km of climbing and 1.5km of descent to get back. 

This map shows the two hikes we did on the Freycinet Peninsula. Find Cooks Beach on the top right, then follow the path away to the unnamed beach, that’s Bryans Beach where we started yesterday. From Cooks Beach follow it to Hazards Beach then to the Isthmus Track then down to the far end of Wineglass Bay (where the tent symbol is). Today we hiked back along Wineglass Bay to the Wineglass Bay Track (and the 1000steps) to the Lookout then down the other side to where it says “You are here”. We then followed the yellow dotted trail hiking to Honeymoon Bay (off the map).

The hike to Honeymoon Bay was easy with the trail more-or-less following alongside the road. Despite most of it being through forest the rocky ranges of Mt Amos and Mt Dove towered above us. Honeymoon Bay was a delight – small, no one here and lovely warm granite rocks to sit on to eat our lunch while we watched several of our party swimming. 

And so ended our wonderful sail/hike with these people who will remain friends.

After about an hour of delightful relaxation here the bus arrived to take us back to Hobart – but not before a lovely cheese platter and wine tasting at Darlington Vineyard just outside Orford. For those worried about my knee it was fine for the last two hikes and has continued to improve ever since.

We met up with Kate and Ric, and Dee and Carl at the Blue Eye restaurant at Salamanca Place where we enjoyed a seafood dinner before farewelling them and heading back to our cosy motorhome for a restful sleep in our own bed. A great time of sailing and hiking. 

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