Day 9: Noahs Beach to The Lions Den

15th June, 2015

It rained last night, at times quite heavily. We were snug and dry in the rooftop tent, but it meant we had a wet tent to pack up – and the ground was muddy! Anyway after brekkie we packed up, went for another walk along the beach, then drove back a couple of K to do the Marrja Botanical walk.

When you're up this way be sure you do this excellent walk.

When you’re up this way be sure you do this excellent walk.

Sheltered from above by the fan palm. Excellent boardwalk with lots of informational signage.

Sheltered from above by the fan palm. Excellent boardwalk with lots of informational signage.

This was truly fascinating as it took us from rainforest, across Oliver Creek and immediately we were in mangroves. I didn’t realise there were so many different types of mangrove. The explanatory signs along the boardwalk made it a very interesting walk. Well done National Parks!

On to Cape Tribulation, where the rainforest meets the sea – stunning scenery.
The Bloomfield Track begins just north of Cape Trib. The road follows an ancient aboriginal walking track and has quite a chequered history as environmentalists fought to have its construction stopped for fear of the effect it would have on the coral reef just off the coast. Nevertheless it went ahead and became infamous as a slippery dirt road with very steep ascents, descents and creek crossings – a challenge for 4WD enthusiasts. So it was with some trepidation that we began this section.

The beginning of the Bloomfield Track is the beginning of many kilometers of dirt roads over the next few weeks.

The beginning of the Bloomfield Track is the beginning of many kilometers of dirt roads over the next few weeks.

It wasn’t long before the tyre pressures were reduced and the car put into low lock. We’d timed the creek crossing for low tide when the creek would be lowest but with a firm rocky bottom it wasn’t too much of a challenge. No argument, the ascents and descents were very steep, but the worst ones had been concreted which helped. It took some expertise to drive it, but I reckon we’ve been on worse.

It wasn't long before we came to our first river crossing; the first of many.

It wasn’t long before we came to our first river crossing; the first of many.

The bitumen began at Wujal Wujal where we stopped to look in the community art gallery and to have some lunch. A diversion to the Bloomfield Falls was well worth it – thunderous falls into a big, wide river – very picturesque.

The Bloomfield Falls - breathtaking! I can't imagine what they'd be like in the wet season.

The Bloomfield Falls – breathtaking! I can’t imagine what they’d be like in the wet season.

Not much further on we arrived at our destination for the night – The Lions Den Hotel – an historic and quite quirky hotel that has camping behind it. Dinner of barramundi and chips in the pub tonight.

Enjoying a well-earnt drink at The Lions Den bar.

Enjoying a well-earnt drink at The Lions Den bar.

To see other photos from our lovely drive today CLICK HERE.

Day 2: Yamba to Iluka

Mother’s Day! If I can’t be with my beautiful children today (which I can’t) then here is the next best place to be. The weather is perfect and the river looks magic. High tide isn’t until about midday, so we had the morning to fill in. We went for a lovely walk, about 5K, to the end of the breakwater and back again. Nothing quite means sailing more than dolphins frolicking in the waves – and they were there aplenty, if not very photogenic!

Lovely views of the Yamba boat harbour on our walk out to the breakwater.

Lovely views of the Yamba boat harbour on our walk out to the breakwater.

Mid-morning we rigged – hmmm bit rusty – thankfully Steve thinks out every step carefully as we go and the mast went up without a hitch. The boat ramp was pretty average – no ramp pontoon, and no easy place to pull her ashore once in the water (so we can board) makes life difficult. However we managed and pulled her over to a nearby jetty where we tied her up before heading to the marina coffee shop for a well-deserved coffee.

Then off we set! Yay – on the water again! Not far to go today – 2.25 nm to be exact, which took us all of 50 minutes motoring. There’s an artificial ‘wall’ in the middle of the river which is only just above water level – you have to be on the ball following the navigation aids and charts to go between the two towns.

Iluka is another fishing village, as is Yamba. The fishing trawlers were all moored over in one section of the marina, with the yachts anchored randomly within the marina walls. However, for we lucky ones who can pull up our keel, there’s a nice new pontoon with mooring available for at least 6 vessels in about 1 meter of water. I love being able to just step off  the boat!

Moored securely for the night at Iluka

Moored securely for the night at Iluka

The biggest surprise was the pirate ship anchored in front of us as we came in! Turns out it is the Notorious, a replica of a 15th century caravel which has been handcrafted over 10 years by its owners. The builder was inspired by the legend (or history) of a sunken Portugese ship which had been visible until the mid 18th century off the coast in Victoria near where he lives.

The caravel, Notorious.

The caravel, Notorious.

As it was still early afternoon we went for another walk around the foreshore along the river. Lovely homes, lovely parks, great caravan park with river frontage and a fabulous walkway – a credit to the local council. There’s also a World Heritage Listed walk around the headland which takes about 3 hours return, but after our walk this morning we weren’t up for it – next time!
Back to Top Shelf, cook a BBQ for dinner on our Magma BBQ which is attached to the back of the boat and then off to bed for an early night.

BBQ at sunset. Iluka

BBQ at sunset. Iluka

 

This fabulous protected harbour at Iluka is just perfect for us. Top Shelf is on the pontoon. Notorious, the caravel, is anchored inside the walls.

This fabulous protected harbour at Iluka is just perfect for us. Top Shelf is on the pontoon. Notorious, the caravel, is anchored inside the walls.

For more photos from todays adventure click HERE

 

Pugsley is on guard protecting us from pirates at Iluka

Pugsley is on guard protecting us from pirates at Iluka

Days 5 & 6: Robinson Gorge

Saturday 25th

We decided to do the two other walks today, one this morning to Shepherds Peak and one this afternoon to the Lookout then spend tomorrow doing nothing all day. Sounds good.

The steep climb up Shepherds Peak was worth every one of the many calories expended getting there.

The steep climb up Shepherds Peak was worth every one of the many calories expended getting there.

Shepherds Peak is a sandstone plateau about 2K from camp. An easy walk to get there, but quite steep to climb to the plateau. Listed as a Class 4 walk it was tricky in places and demanded full attention. Steve stepped on a loose rock crossing one of the crevasses and took a tumble sustaining only hurt pride fortunately as a huge boulder blocked his descent down to the bottom! On top the views over the park and gorge is excellent – 360 degrees. Again with sheer cliff edges and lots of crevasses it’s not a place you’d take children.
We spent quite a while exploring the plateau and taking photos – every view was so rewarding. AND we got phone cover so checked emails and phoned family.

Shepherds Peak. Can you see us on the far cliff?

Shepherds Peak. Can you see us on the far cliff?

Back to camp for lunch.
Robinson Gorge Lookout late afternoon. We toyed with taking wine and having wine o’clock watching the sun set over the gorge, but with a 2K walk back to camp in the dusk we thought we might be cutting it too fine. And there was also the access to the gorge here which we thought we’d like to do. So off we set sans vino (mixing my languages there maybe).
Again wonderful views and well worth every step. The gorge floor looked so interesting and inviting to explore. We took a look at the access to the gorge and decided we’d really like to spend lots of unhurried time exploring down there so put it off until tomorrow.

The northern end of Robinson Gorge.

The northern end of Robinson Gorge.

Back to camp for the usual – campfire, wine, chat, dinner.
We’ve been very lucky with the weather – chilly mornings and evenings but glorious cloud-free days. The sky at night is just a million stars – even a shooting star!

One worker; one supervisor! Campsite BBQ at Robinson Gorge

One worker; one supervisor! Campsite BBQ at Robinson Gorge

To see more photos from this section of the trip click HERE.

Sunday 26th

After breakfast we all headed back to Robinson Gorge Lookout to explore the gorge floor. This is the only place you can get down the gorge cliffs. Needless to say it was very steep and we went down much of it backwards. However National Parks has cut foot-holes into the sheerest parts of the sandstone to make it do-able. There was also a steep sandy part too that we slid down – going up this bit was tough.

Conveniently carved stone steps. Photos always make it look less steep that it actually is!

Conveniently carved stone steps. Photos always make it look less steep that it actually is!

On the gorge floor it felt like we were in the Journey to the Centre of the Earth where the plants were unique and it felt so different from ‘up there’. We scrambled over rocks and logs and got to the water’s edge and followed it, with lots more scrambling and climbing for a while before heading back. The climb back up the cliff, while strenuous, didn’t seem as difficult as the climb down, apart from the loose sand section.

The gorge floor. Challenging to explore.

The gorge floor. Challenging to explore.

We were back in plenty of time to shower before lunch, then more relaxing. Played 500; chicks vs cockrels, with chicks winning convincingly, naturally.
The boys organised another fantastic campfire to cook our meal on and relax by until bedtime.

To see more photos from this section of the trip click HERE.

Days 2 & 3: Isla to Lake Murphy

Still in bed when we got the call from Trish and Bryan, who had setup their camper trailer at Lake Murphy yesterday, saying they were on their way over. When they arrived we took a good look at this lovely gorge and walked out to the lookout along a ridge that seemed to protrude into the gorge. This gave us amazing views of the gorge on both sides. I can highly recommend this spot to travellers as it’s only 1.3K off the highway.

Isla Gorge information board.

Isla Gorge information board.

Bryan wanted to refuel so we all set off for Theodore, then took a scenic drive around to the west of the highway, past Flagstaff Hill at the western end of Isla Gorge National Park, to end at Lake Murphy Conservation Area.

Delightful drive between Theodore and Lake Murphy.

Delightful drive between Theodore and Lake Murphy.

As I’d been the one who planned the trip, Trish and Bryan felt they’d been sold a pup when there was no water to be seen in the Lake, particularly as they were camped here for 3 nights. I knew that, must have neglected to tell them. They insisted that we should have the joy of walking to the ‘lakes’ edge. Yep, totally covered in waist-high reeds or something.

A lake of weeds.

A lake of weeds.

Back to the campsite for wine o’clock, a great campfire and a catch-up.
Total driven: 140K

Sunset - note sun on tops of trees.

Sunset – note sun on tops of trees.

April 23rd

Guess where we are?

Guess where we are?

After a lovely slow start to the day we set off on the 4K circuit walk mid-afternoon. The plant-life in the park area is quite different to the countryside we have travelled through with Dawson Palms and River Red Gums predominating. A pleasant walk.
The campsite here is excellent. Very large campsites each with a wood fire and picnic table cordoned off from the next by logs. Grassy and well maintained with clean drop toilets and tank water. No other campers here during our stay – they don’t know what they’re missing!
Another campfire tonight, campfire talk and off to bed.

Setting off on the circuit walk.

Setting off on the circuit walk.

To see more photos from this section of the trip click HERE.

Day 14: Wingello to Carrington Falls

wingello_sf

Campsite at Wingello SF

This campsite is quite large, in a clearing amongst the pine trees. The area is large, reasonably level and there’s a toilet but no other facilities. The State Forest has many trail bike rides through it. These are well signposted so we did the 6k circuit this morning – walking, not cycling! Not much in the way of views, being all pine trees, but the bird life on the edges was pretty good and we found a few wombat holes – first I’ve ever seen. They’re quite big, as you’d expect, and very well constructed.

bushwalking

Bushwalking the bike trails.

This wombat thinks you can't see his hole.

This wombat thinks you can’t see his hole.

See! Wombat hole!

See! Wombat hole!

Off to Bowral then, which is the home of Don Bradman, the greatest cricketer of all time (apparently). We went to the Bradman Museum which is particularly well presented and interesting enough to hold the attention of a  ‘minimally interested in cricket’ person (AKA me) for at least a couple of hours. Well done Bowral. Then we did one of the tourist drives recommended by the lady at the Tourist Information Centre. We’ve found these Information Centres to be excellent. Always lovely helpful staff with lots of brochures highlighting what’s best to see in the district, and so far they’ve been happy for us to fill our water tank from their taps. Which reminds me, this district is the first in Australia to ban the disposable water bottles.

bradman statue

Two greats! At Bradman Oval

The Tourist Drive was very good, taking us past a large dam and through pretty little villages. Carrington Falls is on the route and was very impressive, and only about 50 metres off the road (no having to walk many K’s to see a waterfall!) By the time we reached these falls it was getting late so we sought out the camping ground, which is only intended for tent camping – ie not strictly legal for us to stay. There’s a toilet and you are supposed to book and pay for camping. We settled down for another peaceful night with just us and a million stars. Bliss.

carrington falls

Beautiful Carrington Falls, part of Kangaroo River. Budderoo National Park

Day 5: Dangars Gorge

salisbury waters

Early breakfast followed by bushwalking. We began with the idea we might go as far as Salisbury Waters which was the full walk – an out and back. We stopped at all the lookouts on the way, did the side trips (McDirty’s, Sarum Hill, The Falls, Dangar Falls – the gorges certainly are spectacular, the walking tracks taking us along the cliff edges all the way. However they’ve not had much rain here lately and most waterfalls were either dry, or just a trickle. The last 2K to Salisbury Waters involved a 400m descent, which means a 400m ascent to return, and by that time we knew we wouldn’t see too much water in the river anyway, and the track was in quite poor condition – no one minded not doing it.
Generally the track was OK, much of it was very stoney and difficult to walk on and, in some sections through the bush, particularly to the side gorges, the track was quite faint and difficult to discern. Signage could be improved too.
In total we walked 16.3K – pretty good!

gorge view

Spectacular views the whole walk.

mihi_gorge

At the brink – of Mihi Gorge

The campsite is fair – pretty good actually considering it’s free! Each site is cleared and has its own fire pit, with wood provided, and our site had a picnic table. The sites aren’t level. There’s a tap with ‘boil before consuming’ noted and a long-drop toilet which was clean. No phone/internet.

We had a pleasant evening resting our weary legs around a lovely campfire where we barbecued our dinner. The kangaroos, with joeys in pouch, came quite close to our camps – as did possums that had a dark tail – haven’t seen them before.

dangars gorge campsite

Sunset at Dangar’s Gorge campsite

Day 4: Girraween to Oxley Wild Rivers NP

Distance: 256K
Weather: Sunny, mid 20s

On the way out of Girraween we did one last short walk to Dr Roberts Waterhole. The very first walking track in Girraween was to this waterhole. Apart from it being a lovely spot to swim (no we didn’t) it’s the home of the superb lyrebird which is the reason Dr Roberts lobbied the government of the day to create a National Park here, protecting their habitat and that of the wombat. Thank goodness for caring, far-sighted people such as him.

We were soon on the New England Highway headed to Armidale from where we turned off to Dangars Gorge. We stopped at Tenterfield to reprovision. It was another very pleasant drive through lovely countryside in pleasant weather. At the turnoff to Dangars Gorge is a very impressive monument built in the 1930s by a local whose son was killed in WW1

At Dangars Gorge our friends Trish and Bryan were already set up. We were soon settled with sundowners in hand and a pleasant evening catching up ahead.

memorial

A very interesting memorial which is well worth stopping to view.

Days 2 & 3: Castle Rock Camping area, Girraween National Park

Distance travelled: 0 (by vehicle that is)
Weather: Beautiful – blue skies, fluffy clouds, pleasant temperature, a light breeze

Bushwalking and relaxing are our goals here. Girraween National Park is fair and square in the granite belt, speaking of ancient volcanic activity. Today the park is covered in enormous granite boulders and granite flows. It has several creeks that flow through the park and a pretty good average rainfall of 800+mm annually which supports a reasonably lush sclerophyll bush. Because of its elevation it’s significantly cooler than the plains with average maximum in summer of about 30C. We were lucky with the weather during our stay as you can see.

Girraween is an Australian Aboriginal word meaning ‘place of flowers’ and despite a bad bushfire in the park only 3 months ago there are pretty wildflowers and new growth on the trees everywhere.

On our first day here we decided to do the ‘moderately difficult’ walks of The Sphinx, Turtle Rock and Castle Rock – which will be about 8 – 9K with the climb to the summit of Castle Rock being graded as ‘difficult’. There was lots of ups and not nearly enough downs and millions of granite steps. They took us past gigantic granite rocks strewn around like marbles, lots of interesting bushes, many of which are flowering with the prettiest little intricate flowers, bird life which was mostly heard rather than seen and lots of delightful Cunninghams skinks. The Sphinx was pretty impressive, and so was Turtle Rock for its sheer size, but you needed a better imagination than I have to make out a turtle shape. Castle Rock was pretty incredible for many reasons, one of which was the effort it takes to climb it. However the views are outstanding and well worth the difficult scrambling and fear-inducing slope down to infinity to see.

south_girraween

girraween_steve

Steve, with The Sphinx behind him

from_castle_rock

Granite, just as far as the eye can see.

Second day here (Happy Birthday Nick) we had a late leisurely start before completing the walks to the Granite Arch, the Bald Rock Creek circuit and Wyberba circuit. These are easy walks on predominantly flat routes. Bald Rock Creek is unique in that it winds its way around granite rocks and across a granite bed – there are small waterfalls and little rapids. It’s flowing very well at the moment. The Wyberba Circuit took us further downstream where the creek was fairly wide and had a beautiful swimming hole – tempting, but not hot enough for me to swim. The creeks of Girraween feed the Murray-Darling rivers.

bald_rock_creek

Bald Rock Creek – beaustiful, babbling and cool

granite_arch

Do I see movement? Don’t look up now Steve!

regrowth

Regrowth everywhere after the fires only 3 months ago.

Sitting at our campsite this afternoon within minutes we had spotted magpies, currawongs, kookaburras, fairy wrens, crimson rosellas and heard the songs of others we couldn’t identify. There’s a mob of kangaroos that feed on the short grass in the camping area and a couple of hares that are probably too small to make a good stew!

I’m sure as our travels continue we’ll stay in many National Parks. We are indeed blessed with a fantastic network of Parks. The walks are clearly marked and well maintained – taking in the full range of difficulty to cater for the predominantly sedentary to the keen bushwalker. They have excellent camping facilities with this one having free hot showers, flush toilets (both very clean), large grassy areas for games, picnic tables and BBQs (these are wood BBQs and it is BYO wood). All this for the princely sum of $5.20 per person per night (in Qld, anyway).

campsite_girraween

Our personal slice of heaven.