Day 8: Staircase Range to Ka Ka Mundi

After brekkie We headed for Springsure, just 20K further on. Here we refueled (taking ages – hope this problem gets a solution soon!), filled the water tank at the Information Centre, got some info there and went to the Spar supermarket  for eggs. We were down to 20% water in the tank – good to know we can comfortably carry enough for a full week including showering daily. And we read our emails, caught up with Facebook and rang family. Not having internet is good for a little while, but we’ve become so dependent on it that it is truly appreciated when you get it back after going without for a while.

It seems every country town out here has a windmill in its park, and Springsure is an exception.

It seems every country town out here has a windmill in its park, and Springsure is no exception.

Heading off from Springsure we left the highway after 50K, heading south towards Ka Ka Mundi. The road serviced the cattle stations along the way. There can’t be much money in cattle judging by the very modest station homesteads. The countryside was open, undulating grasslands stretching to the Great Dividing Range seen in the distance. it was quite striking against the cloudless deep blue sky. Most of the road was unsealed, but in very good condition, maintained for the cattle trucks I guess. The last section before the park was through Yandaburra, one of the cattle stations.

Priscilla enters Yandaburra station.

Priscilla enters Yandaburra station.

Once in Ka Ka Mundi the road condition deteriorated, but wasn’t too bad. We put Priscilla into 4WD to be on the safe side, only needing it in a few sandy sections. Not too bad really. The campsite was about 12K inside the Park.

And here we are at last.

And here we are at last.

Ka Ka Mundi is in a remote section of the Carnarvon National Park. It had sandstone escarpments which we found to be weathered quite uniquely – different to the other parks. There were many caves in the escarpments formed in startlingly white sandstone.
About 250metres from the campsite is a spring – Bunbuncundoo Springs. The Aboriginals who used to live here before European settlement believed this spring held healing powers and would bathe their sickly children in its waters. It’s a lovely spring, quite fast flowing considering the predominantly dry countryside. The little brook fed by its waters is lush with tree ferns and coral ferns. Quite an oasis. The aboriginals also believed the caves around the Spring were home to Eunjies, contact with the spirit form of them leading to illness. Hence they didn’t wander from their campfires until daybreak. Neither will I!!

See the water gushing out  of the Bunbuncundoo Spring.

See the water gushing out of the Bunbuncundoo Spring.

Those caves - are they really home to spirit creatures?

Those caves – are they really home to spirit creatures?

We sat beside Priscilla after dinner gazing for ages at the beautiful sky filled with stars. No lights to detract for many, many kilometres around – what a treat!

To see the photos for this section of the trip click HERE.
Distance travelled: 158K

Here’s a map of the routes we took getting to the National Parks:

From Theodore to Ka Ka Mundi via Lake Murphy and Robinsons Gorge

From Theodore to Ka Ka Mundi via Lake Murphy and Robinsons Gorge

Day 7: Robinson Gorge to Staircase Range

Today we farewell Trish and Bryan as they head home. We all left just after breakfast parting company at the turnoff into the Park with Trish and Bryan heading south and us north along Glenhaughton Road. The Hema map had a choice of several unsealed roads we could take. The road wasn’t well maintained and it needed 4WD for most of it and we travelled pretty slowly. It took us about 5 hours to get to the Dawson Highway during which time we didn’t see another vehicle or human. That said though, it was on the whole a really lovely drive.

Definitely a road less travelled.

Definitely a road less travelled.

Thanks little man. Got it!

Thanks little man. Got it!

Once on the highway we still had 140K to go to Springsure and another 2 hours to get to Ka Ka Mundi – too far after all that concentration needed for the first part of the trip. We looked for a camp and found a free camp just outside Springsure at Staircase Range Cutting. It’s just off the road, but well out of sight and has a fire place and a concrete picnic table. The historic cutting it ajoins was carved through the rock in 1905 by Chinese labourers using hand tools. Hard work!

Staircase Range historical cutting.

Staircase Range historical cutting.

Despite being quite close to the road we weren’t disturbed during the night as there is very little traffic after dark.

To see the photos for this section of the trip click HERE.
Distance travelled: 302K

Days 5 & 6: Robinson Gorge

Saturday 25th

We decided to do the two other walks today, one this morning to Shepherds Peak and one this afternoon to the Lookout then spend tomorrow doing nothing all day. Sounds good.

The steep climb up Shepherds Peak was worth every one of the many calories expended getting there.

The steep climb up Shepherds Peak was worth every one of the many calories expended getting there.

Shepherds Peak is a sandstone plateau about 2K from camp. An easy walk to get there, but quite steep to climb to the plateau. Listed as a Class 4 walk it was tricky in places and demanded full attention. Steve stepped on a loose rock crossing one of the crevasses and took a tumble sustaining only hurt pride fortunately as a huge boulder blocked his descent down to the bottom! On top the views over the park and gorge is excellent – 360 degrees. Again with sheer cliff edges and lots of crevasses it’s not a place you’d take children.
We spent quite a while exploring the plateau and taking photos – every view was so rewarding. AND we got phone cover so checked emails and phoned family.

Shepherds Peak. Can you see us on the far cliff?

Shepherds Peak. Can you see us on the far cliff?

Back to camp for lunch.
Robinson Gorge Lookout late afternoon. We toyed with taking wine and having wine o’clock watching the sun set over the gorge, but with a 2K walk back to camp in the dusk we thought we might be cutting it too fine. And there was also the access to the gorge here which we thought we’d like to do. So off we set sans vino (mixing my languages there maybe).
Again wonderful views and well worth every step. The gorge floor looked so interesting and inviting to explore. We took a look at the access to the gorge and decided we’d really like to spend lots of unhurried time exploring down there so put it off until tomorrow.

The northern end of Robinson Gorge.

The northern end of Robinson Gorge.

Back to camp for the usual – campfire, wine, chat, dinner.
We’ve been very lucky with the weather – chilly mornings and evenings but glorious cloud-free days. The sky at night is just a million stars – even a shooting star!

One worker; one supervisor! Campsite BBQ at Robinson Gorge

One worker; one supervisor! Campsite BBQ at Robinson Gorge

To see more photos from this section of the trip click HERE.

Sunday 26th

After breakfast we all headed back to Robinson Gorge Lookout to explore the gorge floor. This is the only place you can get down the gorge cliffs. Needless to say it was very steep and we went down much of it backwards. However National Parks has cut foot-holes into the sheerest parts of the sandstone to make it do-able. There was also a steep sandy part too that we slid down – going up this bit was tough.

Conveniently carved stone steps. Photos always make it look less steep that it actually is!

Conveniently carved stone steps. Photos always make it look less steep that it actually is!

On the gorge floor it felt like we were in the Journey to the Centre of the Earth where the plants were unique and it felt so different from ‘up there’. We scrambled over rocks and logs and got to the water’s edge and followed it, with lots more scrambling and climbing for a while before heading back. The climb back up the cliff, while strenuous, didn’t seem as difficult as the climb down, apart from the loose sand section.

The gorge floor. Challenging to explore.

The gorge floor. Challenging to explore.

We were back in plenty of time to shower before lunch, then more relaxing. Played 500; chicks vs cockrels, with chicks winning convincingly, naturally.
The boys organised another fantastic campfire to cook our meal on and relax by until bedtime.

To see more photos from this section of the trip click HERE.

Day 4: Lake Murphy to Robinson Gorge

Our convoy at the turnoff to Robinson Gorge.

Our convoy at the turnoff to Robinson Gorge.

Robinson Gorge is a bit further west of Lake Murphy along the Glenhaughton Road – a good dirt road. The last 16K on Currajong Rd into the park however were 4WD only. There were some rough patches but on the whole pretty good until just immediately before the campground where the road goes down a rocky and washed out hill to a dry creek crossing packed with rocks. A little thought to our track and Priscilla was through it without a bother.
Another excellent National Parks campground similar to that at Lake Murphy.

Distance travelled: 66K

Another excellent National Parks campsite.

Another excellent National Parks campsite. Note: This is the road into the campsite – down this hill and across the stony gully at the bottom.

Another well-maintained and pretty campsite.

Another well-maintained and pretty campsite.

“Winding for 14K between sheer sandstone cliffs up to 100m high, Robinson Gorge is one of the main features of the large and remote Expedition National park. Robinson Gorge is unusual – it begins as a broad, shallow basin before narrowing to a deep pool in a narrow gorge only six metres wide near its southern end.”
There are 3 walks to do here, so we decided to get started on them today. First one is the 6.5K return walk to the Cattle Dip, which is actually the very narrow end of the gorge with the deep pool. It does resemble a cattle dip! Most of this walk was along a road, which we could have driven, but we all felt like a bit of exercise. Being sandstone the cliff edges of the gorge are sheer and crumbly. The Cattle Dip was viewed from the top of the cliff and looks very inviting. We’re pretty sure we saw either a turtle or playpus in it – bit hard to tell as it’s a long way down and no way to get there.
Back to camp for campfire and dinner.

The very narrow end of Robinson Gorge, known as the 'Cattle Dip' for obvious reasons.

The very narrow end of Robinson Gorge, known as the ‘Cattle Dip’ for obvious reasons.

Days 2 & 3: Isla to Lake Murphy

Still in bed when we got the call from Trish and Bryan, who had setup their camper trailer at Lake Murphy yesterday, saying they were on their way over. When they arrived we took a good look at this lovely gorge and walked out to the lookout along a ridge that seemed to protrude into the gorge. This gave us amazing views of the gorge on both sides. I can highly recommend this spot to travellers as it’s only 1.3K off the highway.

Isla Gorge information board.

Isla Gorge information board.

Bryan wanted to refuel so we all set off for Theodore, then took a scenic drive around to the west of the highway, past Flagstaff Hill at the western end of Isla Gorge National Park, to end at Lake Murphy Conservation Area.

Delightful drive between Theodore and Lake Murphy.

Delightful drive between Theodore and Lake Murphy.

As I’d been the one who planned the trip, Trish and Bryan felt they’d been sold a pup when there was no water to be seen in the Lake, particularly as they were camped here for 3 nights. I knew that, must have neglected to tell them. They insisted that we should have the joy of walking to the ‘lakes’ edge. Yep, totally covered in waist-high reeds or something.

A lake of weeds.

A lake of weeds.

Back to the campsite for wine o’clock, a great campfire and a catch-up.
Total driven: 140K

Sunset - note sun on tops of trees.

Sunset – note sun on tops of trees.

April 23rd

Guess where we are?

Guess where we are?

After a lovely slow start to the day we set off on the 4K circuit walk mid-afternoon. The plant-life in the park area is quite different to the countryside we have travelled through with Dawson Palms and River Red Gums predominating. A pleasant walk.
The campsite here is excellent. Very large campsites each with a wood fire and picnic table cordoned off from the next by logs. Grassy and well maintained with clean drop toilets and tank water. No other campers here during our stay – they don’t know what they’re missing!
Another campfire tonight, campfire talk and off to bed.

Setting off on the circuit walk.

Setting off on the circuit walk.

To see more photos from this section of the trip click HERE.

Day 1: Home to Isla Gorge

In October 2013 we explored Carnarvon Gorge and did all the bushwalks there (see the blog entry for that month). We enjoyed this so much that I thought it would be good to explore the other National Parks within the Sandstone Belt hence the purpose of this trip. We have limited time so only Isla Gorge, Lake Murphy Conservation Area, Robinson Gorge, Ka Ka Mundi and Salvatore Rosa are on the itinerary. Trish and Bryan, the friends we walked Carnarvon Gorge with, are also joining us for the first 3 parks.

The week before we left was very busy preparing for this trip. While it’s been planned for a long time, preparations didn’t get underway as we had the joy of our visiting family with their new babies to keep us very preoccupied. Because the majority of this trip will be in National Parks with only one opportunity to shop I decided to precook all the main meals and bring them frozen. For my future reference 5 meals fitted in the freezer – more would fit if I’d chosen similar sized containers and fitted them to the freezer. Another 5 frozen meals were put into the fridge.

The park at Nanango.

The park at Nanango.

21st April: Kilcoy to Isla Gorge National Park
We left home around 7.30am in Priscilla, with Nanango our first stop for breakfast. This town provides a lovely park and picnic area with a working windmill and a typical gold miners mine head and equipment displayed.
Next stop Gayndah for lunch and to buy some oranges – after all, this IS the centre of Queensland’s citrus industry. Here the Council allows a 20-hour stop-over for the travelling public with clean showers and toilets. Great facilities Gayndah, well done.
Onward to Eisdvold to top-up the fuel tanks and have a chat to the lovely man at the Information Centre. The Information Centre is a part of the RM Williams education centre – would be good to visit when some presentations are on. RM Williams’ first property is midway between Eisdvold and Theodore.
We’re having problems refueling. The diesel seems to foam at the mouth of the inlet and it only dribbles in from the bowser taking ages and ages to fill the tank – might have something to do with the long-range fuel tanks. We’ve asked Trakka about it and will see if they have any ideas.
On to Theodore via Cracow. Cracow is a gold town with a working goldmine. We didn’t stop. Closer to Theodore we started to see cropping  – particularly a tall spindley weedy-looking crop which we later learned was mung beans. Fancy that! The sorghum fields were also very pretty with their red heads of grain just waiting to be harvested. However the major crop is cotton and has recently been harvested. These fields are all irrigated from the Dawson River via an open-channel irrigation system which runs alongside the road for many kilometers.
From here it was a short drive down the Leichhardt Highway to the Isla Gorge turnoff and to our camp for the night. We very much enjoyed watching the sun set over this spectacular gorge – but we’ll look at it more tomorrow when our friends join us.

The sun is setting. Note the 'island' in the middle of the gorge.

The sun is setting. Note the ‘island’ in the middle of the gorge.

514K today – a big drive, but handled well by swapping drivers every two hours and having decent, long breaks along the way.

To see more photos from this section of the trip click HERE.